For most people, the prospect of holidaying in Bogota is about as appealing as taking a mini-break in Baghdad. The capital of Colombia is more famous for cocaine, corruption and crime than for its swinging nightlife. But though things in the Latin American city certainly were bad - in the 1990s it had a homicide rate of 80 per 100,000 - Bogota has cleaned up its act. And now, obsessed with soap operas and the birthplace of the series Ugly Betty, it is reaching out to new fans.

Beyond the grinding poverty, crime, gridlocked traffic and choking smog, there is a lot to recommend Colombia's capital. And a growing number of tourists, eager to get off the beaten track, are flocking to experience South America's fourth largest city.

Bogota is one of the continent's most splendid repositories of colonial architecture and art and the home of one of its most vibrant cultural scenes. Each year, in May, it hosts an international arts festival, attracting performers from all over the world, a number of whom appeared at this year's Edinburgh Fringe. To get a bird's eye view of this extraordinary city, I take a funicular ride up the hill to El Santuario de Monserrate, a pretty little white church perched atop the rocky outcrop known as Cerro de Monserrate. It offers splendid views over the city, sprawling across the valley as far as the eye can see. My visit happens to coincide with a Sunday Mass, and half of the city's residents seem to have made the journey up the steep hillside. Every Sunday, dozens of families journey hundreds, and in some cases, thousands, of miles across the country to bring sick relatives in the hope that the Lord will reward their pilgrimage with a miracle cure.

There's standing room only inside the church, but the service is relayed over a loudspeaker system to the crowds gathered on the steps outside. Further up the hill, there is a makeshift alleyway of dozens of snack bars, all serving the same grilled chicken and pastries. A mangy-looking dog scavenges for scraps, while a group of dirty-faced children plays tag between the stalls, to the annoyance of the owners. At the foot of the hill is downtown Bogota, with its eclectic mix of museums and galleries. Most famous is El Museo del Oro (or the Gold Museum, 16th Street, between Carreras 5 and 6; www.banrep.gov.co/museo/eng), which houses one of the most exceptional collections of gold anywhere in the world. Also worth checking out is the Museo de Arte Moderno (Plaza de la Cultura Juan Pablo Duarte; 001 809 685 2153) and the lovely old Teatro Colon (Calle 10 No 5-32), whose faded, crumbling exterior hints at its former grandeur.

Colombia is a passionately Catholic country and La Candeleria district teems with churches and cathedrals. They are among the best-preserved colonial-era churches in Latin America and vary wildly in architectural style, from the gaudy gold-plated interior of the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara (Carrera 8 No 8-91) to the wonderful wood carvings and frescoes on display in the Iglesia de San Augustin.

I wander down a narrow cobbled street and suddenly find myself on the awe-inspiring Plaza de Bolivar. This imposing square is home to a number of monumental buildings, with architectural styles spanning four centuries. The square and everything in it is vast, as if built on an entirely different scale from the rest of the city.

On the north side of the plaza is the modern Palacio de Justicia. It was reconstructed in 1999 after the original was damaged during the army's much-criticised 1985 storming of the building when it was taken over by the M19 guerilla group. The raid led to the deaths of more than 100 people, including 12 supreme court judges. Inscribed on a plaque above the new building's doorway are the words: "Arms will make you free, but laws will give you liberty."

To get a flavour of the country beyond the capital city, I catch a bus north through the lush countryside to the magnificent salt cathedral of Zipaquira (www.catedraldesal.gov.co), 50km away. The cathedral lies completely underground and is topped by a huge mountain which was mined by local Indians. As you descend 180 metres below ground, you pass 14 chapels built entirely of salt which glow like marble in the soft light. The main nave boasts the world's largest subterranean cross - an impressive feat of modern engineering.

Although an unspectacular little town, Zipaquira makes a welcome change of pace after a few days in the big, brash, bustling capital. The highway leading back to Bogota is lined with hothouses, growing flowers that will end up in florists, supermarkets and garden centres around the UK.

In the evening I meet up with a group of Argentine actors who are performing in the arts festival. They have already been in town for a fortnight and promise to take me to Bogota's hot spots, in the chi chi northern quarter.

If evidence were needed of the gap between rich and poor, North Bogota is the place to find it. This is where Colombia's rich and famous come to party and the prices are much the same as you would expect in any Western capital city. Prada, Gucci, Armani and every other designer brand imaginable is on display in the huge, modern shopping malls here. The area is lined with dozens of upmarket bars and world-class restaurants with prices to match their extravagant menus.

It's not long before the heart-throbs of the cast are causing a stir. It turns out that most people in the bar have seen the performance (despite the steep £25 ticket price). I get chatting to a young woman standing beside me at the bar, who turns out to be the Peruvian star of one of the most popular soap operas in South America. Before long she is surrounded by a crowd of fans, looking for autographs and anecdotes from the set.

Colombians love television; this, after all, is the birthplace of Ugly Betty. Written by Fernando Gaitan, Yo Soy Betty, La Fea (literally, I Am Betty, The Ugly) is one of numerous soap operas, or telenovelas, produced in Colombia and watched by millions of devotees across South America and the United States. Even spending an hour or so in your hotel room watching television will help you get ahead of the crowd; but then that holds for the whole, unforgettable location.

FURTHER INFORMATION Continental (www.continental.com) and Air France (www.airfrance.com) fly from Scottish airports to Bogota via Newark and Paris respectively from around £600 return.

The Radisson Royal Bogota (Calle 114 9-65 Teleport Business Park, 00 57 1 629 5559; www.radisson.com/bogotaco; radisson@hotelesroyal.com) has double rooms for £90 a night. The hotel is located on the northeast side of Bogota, adjacent to the Santa Ana Mall.

For more information on Colombia, check the official tourism website: http://english.bogota turismo.gov.co/ CARBON FOOTPRINT Approximately 2.122 tonnes CO2 on a return flight from Glasgow to Bogota via Newark.