The top tier of the international fashion hierarchy came together recently for #MargielaMonday to witness John Galliano's highly anticipated debut collection for Parisian fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. 

Fashion's former enfant terrible impressed an intimate crowd of around 100 fashion elites including best friend Kate Moss, Anna Wintour, Christopher Bailey and Nicola Formichetti with a tightly edited Haute Couture 'Artisanal' collection that somehow managed to reflect his infamous theatrical style and still pay homage to the house's original minimalist designer Martin Margiela.  

The appointment of John Galliano last October as Creative Director at Maison Martin Margiela was first met with divided opinion.  It was considered that Galliano and Margiela himself were polar opposites within the fashion spectrum.  Galliano is famed for his flamboyancy, excess and escapism whilst Margiela founded his fashion house on strictly minimalist principles.  Martin Margiela is so reclusive that few people even know what he looks like and was renowned for focusing on the house as a collective rather than one individual receiving all the credit as designer.  Following his retirement in 2009 the design team continued to be shrouded in secrecy until the iconic fashion journalist Suzy Menkes revealed last year that Matthieu Blazy was the Creative Director behind the brand causing a sensation within the industry.     

The womenswear Haute Couture show was surprisingly scheduled on the last day of London Collections: Men and took place within a newly built high rise office building at 62 Buckingham Gate.   Following much speculation on why a show that would normally of been scheduled as part of Couture Week in Paris was to be staged in London, Galliano silenced his critics just hours before the show confirming the reasons were personal.  He claimed it was because of his strong links with the British capital.  The 54 year old is considered to be one of the most successful graduates of the city's prestigious Central Saint Martin's and he wanted to bring this collection back to where it all started for him.

Models walked to a soundtrack of Shirley Bassey's "Hey Big Spender" and an orchestral version of  "There's No Business Like Show Business" wearing sky high platforms designed by none other than Manolo Blahnik who was also present.  

Heavily embellished sequins, ruffles, velvet and latex all featured in the entirely hand crafted collection of artfully deconstructed tailoring, party dresses and outerwear worn with devilish masks and feathered crowns.  Stand out pieces included a red lacquered lobster coat and a billowing cape folded into flowers.  Cloven-toed footwear was mounted upon elevated platforms reinventing the signature Margiela 'Tabi' boot.  The finale was far from minimal but managed to evoke the origins of the brand particularly the early white collections.  Toiles of calico, muslin and paper complete with written instructions on each piece called attention to the skilled work that went into each piece shown prior in it's full glory.  And finally, wearing the Maison Martin Margiela signature lab coat Galliano appeared briefly and took his first bow since his departure from Dior in 2011 and a first for any designer in the 27 year history of the Margiela brand.     

One thing is sure #MargielaMonday marked the beginning of a new era for both John Galliano and the once elusive Maison and will certainly be a day noted in fashion history.