EDINBURGH. It’s a fine city – a capital city. A city I don’t visit much, I’ll be honest, unless the book festival is on or I have successfully saved up a small fortune for Scotland rugby tickets.

It’s nothing to do with any Glasgow/Edinburgh rivalry – I love both cities for different reasons. Glasgow is my university city, where I grew up, got my first job. I admire its heart, its strong communities, its humour and its beauty in unexpected places. Edinburgh is beautiful in a different way – more aloof, perhaps, though not unfriendly – and always, always packed with people. It buzzes. And it has a castle, which is awesome.

We decided to take the boys – aged nine and 13 – on a short break to Edinburgh over the Easter school holidays. This was met with enthusiasm – Archie and Harry love a jaunt through to tram city.

The news that we would be camping was met with a little less excitement.

“Camping? In Edinburgh? Is that even possible?” wonders Archie.

Well, it’s glamping really, and a little gem of a place in the grounds of a castle. Not THAT castle – Dundas Castle, a grand old keep on the outskirts of Edinburgh, surrounded by beautiful woodlands.

Once the home of the Dundas family (Hugh Dundas served under William Wallace in the defence of his country while his son, George, fought alongside Robert the Bruce at the battle of Bannockburn) it is now owned by Sir Jack Stewart-Clark and his wife, Lady Lydia.

Their refurbishment of the old keep and main house, retaining period charm where possible and introducing modern luxury where necessary, have transformed it into one of Scotland’s finest wedding and conference venues.

The canny Stewart-Clarks have also realised the potential of their "great outdoors" – the 400-acre estate which includes secluded wooded knolls, a peaceful loch, relaxing forest walks and gently sweeping lawns.

It is now home to Glampotel, a glamorous camping company, who have created a collection of "canvas cottages" in the grounds, with lovely views of the loch.

I’ll be honest – I didn’t believe camping of any description could possibly be glamorous, but Dundas Castle has nailed it. Wood burning stove, soft, cosy blankets, proper comfy bed with memory foam mattress and Egyptian cotton sheets and duvet, a toilet and a shower … on arrival, we are collectively gobsmacked.

There are even toiletries and soft towels. It’s better than some hotels I’ve stayed in.

It’s cold, but it’s April in Scotland, so we weren’t expecting tropical temperatures and with the woodburning stove on, the chill is less severe. In the summer months, when the heat of the day will warm the tent, it will be magical.

Breakfast on the terrace was fun, and the boys were in their element, running about outside, spotting ducks, swans, herons and more. It’s a proper get-away-from-it-all experience, with the added bonus of being just a few miles away from the city centre.

There is plenty to see and do in Edinburgh for families, of course, so it’s hard to narrow it down for a short break.

We decided to combine nature with science, courtesy of Dynamic Earth, and a bit of history, served up by Mercat Tours, the award-winning ghost storytellers. It would be a hardy five-year-old who could cope with the spine-tinglingly terrifying Ghosts, Gore and Grime tour, a new addition to the company’s repertoire. Billed as "family-friendly" and suitable for five to 15-year-olds, we were looking for something a little more Horrible Histories than horrifically haunting, but it’s pretty grisly above ground and when it reaches the underground vaults, things take a decidedly creepy turn.

Our guide, the magnificent Ella, takes us through the winding closes of the Old Town, revealing tales of stinking streets and overcrowded houses that make us wrinkle our noses in disgust.

On a cold, sunny April morning, we are a cheery bunch as we make our way down High Street, relishing Ella’s vivid storytelling. We learn what the shout of "Gardyloo" really means (it is to warn passersby that human waste was about to be thrown from a window onto the street); and grimace gleefully at stories of frightful living conditions, bodysnatchers and bogeymen.

It all changes in the vaults, of course, when it’s really not quite so funny. Even the older children in our small group fall silent as Ella leads us through the candle-lit arches, introducing us to some of the creepier characters who once populated these eerie caverns (and maybe still do).

“If at any point you see something, or feel something – if you are worried that something odd is happening, please do remember my name is Ella and just shout it as loud as you can,” deadpans Ella. “And I’ll be the first one up those stairs and out the door as fast as my little legs can carry me …”

The story behind the discovery of the Blair Street vaults – Mercat Tours are the only people to have access to them – is fascinating.

Built in the late 1700s, they were used to house taverns and tradesmen, such as cobblers, and storage space for wine and beer. But conditions were poor, because of the damp, and soon they became a magnet for illicit activities and unsavoury characters.

Around the 1820s, the police raided them and everyone was thrown out, and the vaults were filled with rubble. It was only during an excavation in the 1980s that the history of the vaults was revealed and a picture pieced together of who might have used them.

Mercat Tours opened them up initially for history tours, but as more and more people – including the tour guides and visitors – started to report strange sightings and experiences, they began to compile a devilish database of ghostly goings-on.

Whether you believe it all or not, it’s deliciously eerie and cleverly done – Ella is masterful in her tale-telling, with just the right amount of theatricality so it doesn’t feel over the top but there are still some proper jump-out-of-the-skin moments.

Back above ground, it’s a relief to see daylight and breathe fresh air again, so we decide to take a leisurely stroll through the city to shake off the spooks.

Edinburgh in the sunshine is beautiful – old and new architecture blends almost everywhere you look and the streets are, as always, packed with people, mainly tourists and day-trippers discovering the delights of the capital.

We stop for lunch at Hamilton’s in Stockbridge, Edinburgh’s upmarket, slightly bohemian quarter. It’s a relaxed, friendly affair and the boys loved the burgers, which come piled high with Lockerbie cheddar, tomato and dill pickle, served up with tasty twice-cooked chips.

When we visit Dynamic Earth – the only visitor attraction in the UK dedicated solely to the story of planet Earth – we took an enjoyable journey through time and space, taking in seriously mind-blowing concepts about the expanding universe and a really lovely lunch in the café along the way.

This award-winning tourist attraction is cleverly laid out, with helpful guides to put you in the right lift or point you down the right corridor.

Feeling the ground shake beneath us during a volcanic eruption was fun and hands-on stuff like touching an iceberg, looking at the ocean through a periscope and "flying" over the rainforest always wins over long periods standing still reading things.

We end our weekend as it began, strolling in the spring sunshine. What did the boys like about our mini-holiday in a city close to home?

“Edinburgh’s views are good,” nods Archie, impressed he can see the sea all the way from the city centre.

“Every single shop on this street sells something tartan,” marvels Harry, as we navigate the crowds on the Royal Mile and High Street. “Tartan teacups, tartan towels, tartan dolls, tartan iPhone covers, tartan dogs – not actual dogs – tartan toy dogs …” he rhymes off as we go. “I’ve never seen so much tartan in my whole life and I AM Scottish. And I like all the tourists.”

We’re surrounded by tourists, in fact. We finally feel like we are part of their happy gang.

FACTBOX

A stay at Dundas Castle Glampotel costs £159 per night, or £169 per night in August.

The Ghosts, Gore and Grime tour (which runs on Saturday and Sunday mornings and on weekdays during school holidays) costs £13 for adults, £11 for students and seniors and £8 for children. A family ticket (two adults, two children) costs £34. Visit www.mercattours.com for more information.

Tickets for Dynamic Earth (0131 550 7800 www.dynamicearth.co.uk) cost £15 for adults, £9.50 for children and £13 concession – tickets bought online receive a 10 per cent discount.

For menus and prices at Hamilton’s visit www.hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk or call 0131 226 4199.

FIVE MORE FAMILY FRIENDLY THINGS TO DO IN EDINBURGH

National Museum of Scotland: The museum’s diverse collections cover nature, art, design and fashion and science and technology all under one roof, and there are regular family activities and changing exhibitions. (www.nms.ac.uk, 0300 123 6789)

Royal Yacht Britannia: Discover what life was like on board The Queen’s floating royal residence. (www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk, 0131 555 5566)

Edinburgh Castle: A dazzling day out. (www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk)

Camera Obscura and World of Illusions: Six floors of strange and wonderful fun, including the mysterious Victorian rooftop chamber and its odd camera … (http://camera-obscura.co.uk, 0131 226 3709)

The Edinburgh International Book Festival: One of the many festivals to light up the city around July/August time, this is a corker. It runs from August 12 to 28 and the programme for 2017 will be announced on June 13. (www.edbookfest.co.uk)