CALVADOS is a beautiful and unique spirit, and it is all too often added to the dish during cooking as opposed to being enjoyed in a wee glass while cooking. It is, in fact, one of the unsung heroes of the spirit world.

Essentially it is a brandy distilled from cider made from apples and pears grown in Normandy, France. The juice is fermented into a dry cider before being distilled into eau de vie. The spirit is then aged in oak for a minimum of two years at which point it can be sold as a lovely aperitif. Longer ageing makes for a smoother spirit, which should be enjoyed with the cheeseboard or a nice apple tart. Or simply in front of the fire after a long day.

The magic provided by the distiller involves selecting a combination of the best apples, which can be sweet, bittersweet, bitter or sour from the very best orchards. Calvados comes with its own "terroir", which you will immediately notice when tasting a £15 example as opposed to a £50 bottle. Bear in mind that the prices go up and up, with some phenomenally old bottles fetching more than £1,000.

If you see "Trois Etoiles" or "Trois Pommes" on the label, then the spirit will have been aged for two to three years. "VSOP" indicates a minimum of four years ageing, while "Hors d’Age" will have had at least six years in barrel.

The specific region of origin makes a difference too, and my favourite bottles come from Pays d’Auge. These are richer and more complex than most, and are worth the extra few quid that you have to pay for them.

Domaine Dupont VSOP Pays d’Auge (Inverarity One to One, £46.99). This beautifully elegant spirit has been aged for more than the minimum four years required, and it is arguably the finest Calvados I’ve tasted. It is just delicious.

Calvados Pere Magloire VSOP Pays d’Auge (Waitrose, £22.49 for a 50cl bottle). Pere Magloire have been making Calvados the same way since 1821 and are known as being among the best producers on the market. They were owned by Veuve Clicquot for 30 years from 1968, and are now owned by a Normandy-based family who are keen to preserve the history and quality of the estate. This is very fruity and approachable, and a great introduction to the style.

Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One, 185a Bath Street, Glasgow www.inveraritymorton.com