A DISH with asparagus (or albaragus) and snails demands a good crisp, clean white in the style of a Sauvignon Blanc. You could pick a Marlborough SB from New Zealand, or a nice Sancerre or even a Gruner Veltliner from Austria ... but there are so many more diverse choices from amazing producers out there. Currently, there are readily available and exciting wines on the market that you've probably never even considered.
Piers Greenwood of New Hall Vineyards makes just such a wine with his Bacchus Reserve 2016 (Inverarity One to One, £11.49). He planted the vineyard in Purleigh, Essex in 1969, which puts him way ahead of the English wine-making curve (by about 20 years) and made him one of the first serious winemakers to produce top-quality wine in the south of England. Purleigh is relatively hot and sunny, and that coupled with the chalky clay soil in the vineyards makes it an ideal spot for growing grapes.
Bacchus needs to be harvested at the ideal time to ensure it retains its fresh, clean characteristics. The experience that Piers has built up over the last few decades working with the grapes ensures that he can tell exactly when the grapes should be picked and processed in the winery.
He also leaves the juice on the lees for three months, adding texture, structure and character to the wine. Bottled at just 10.5 per cent ABV (alcohol by volume), this is a delicate and gentle wine, but one with lots of character.
We’re seeing more and more top-quality English wines (both still and sparkling) on the shelves of our local wine merchants as well as a few forward-thinking supermarkets at the moment. If you’ve yet to dip your toe in this pool, now is the time. You’ll be surprised by the quality and accessibility of these wines.
Another one to seek out this weekend is the Oaken Grove Reserve Bacchus 2014 (M&S, £13) from Oxfordshire. It’s crisp and clean with notes of elderflower and apple and would be ideal with snails and albaragus.
Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One, 185a Bath Street www.inveraritymorton.com
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