Deans Restaurant

Perth

THERE’S a strangely stand-offish welcome at Deans this Sunday afternoon which is a frankly a bit uncomfortable as we can see others being greeted in a far warmer fashion. Maybe they’re regulars, we whisper. It’s actually not until the starters arrive that anyone even smiles at us and that’s the waitress.

We discuss this slightly twitchy atmosphere over slow-cooked leg of chicken – the meat rich, savoury and flavoursome. Like chicken used to taste I say, to predictable groans all round; oriental gingers, pak chois, chilli and miso noodles giving this delicate little dish a spry lightness. Cal has a show-stopping, impossibly fluffy twice-baked souffle with haggis of all things; Seona the terrine with pear, while Debs has a neat, tidy and fresh fish plate that they could easily take a picture of and hang on the wall. Luca has the same as the old man on this Father’s Day outing.

Hmm, is the cool welcome because we were late we wonder? Glasgow traffic. We phoned well ahead and were told it wasn’t a (major) problem and indeed there are and will remain free tables throughout.

Or is it because I came in and had to go straight back out to move the car, shouting my order over my shoulder to Debs, in a perhaps too Glasgow-ish fashion.

Perth, on a Sunday, seems a Calvinistic plethora of double yellows, forbidding signs and plenty-of-change-required side-street private car parks.

The waitresses are pleasant when they get into their stride and there will be one of those ice-breaking Fawlty Tower-ish moments later when we realise we have been ordering desserts from two entirely different menus. What sticky toffee pudding, I say? Cue multiple visits to and from the kitchen to clear up the confusion, but it's handled so well by the young waitress we all join in the fun.

Deans is, according to its website anyway, Perth’s best restaurant. It may well be, but with its maroon padded seats, starkly Scottish paintings, white walls and, over there to our left, a pink and flowery wall creeper thing it seems to me of a slightly different age.

It’s on the plates I suppose that they do their talking. Take this West Coast fish curry. Now, it being Father’s Day I think I’m allowed a bit of nostalgia about my own old man being the master of the fish curry, it being the king of all curries. The stock, roasted shells, bones and carcasses are, I can hear him say, absolutely everything; the fish itself simply a sensation to be added at the very end to delicately poach.

I’ve still never tasted better, but Deans is a close second being somehow juicy and savoury with a sweetly seductive coconut aftertaste and perfectly judged wok-fried vegetables. If I wanted to grumble I’d maybe mention that the prawn cracker was a nice touch with the starter – maybe not so entertaining when another pops up with the curry.

The main courses, the slow-cooked pork with crackling puffs, that smoky bacon-tasting emulsion on the side, even the plain vanilla Sunday roast are all being praised in one way or another.

Those wooden bowls of freshly baked breads that arrived earlier from a kitchen that can clearly bake – and with considerable panache – were devoured, though we won’t realise there’s a £3 supplement for each of the bowls until it pops up on the bill.

Still, two courses of lunch weighs in at £19 and three for £25, not unreasonable given the standard.

We have desserts too: the Perthshire strawberries with vanilla and fudge cream and meringues; the banoffee, brioche and chocolate bread and butter pudding. The desserts are not as good as the other courses, but consider the price. A very good meal then, from a high-quality kitchen, just that curious welcome to temper our enthusiasm.

Deans Restaurant

77 Kinnoull Street

Perth

01738 643377

Menu: Slow-cooked leg of chicken with pak choi; West Coast fish curry; Perthshire strawbs and vanilla fudge cream – stylish and imaginative choices. 4/5

Atmosphere: Slightly old school feel to the restaurant in the heart of Perth, but nonetheless comfortable enough. 4/5

Service: Strange welcome that almost set an uncomfortable tone, but management aside the two waitresses who dealt with our table were pleasant and friendly. 3/5

Price: Pretty much top drawer cooking and careful presentation at £19 for two courses, £25 for three – extra £3 for (admittedly good) breads. 4/5

Food: Technique, presentation and flavours. West Coast fish curry was the standout dish, but overall it’s all pretty good. 8/10

23/30