Erin McDermott
HERS is a tale of betrayal, murder, loss, abdication and great misfortune. The story of Mary Stuart lives on with the movie release of Mary, Queen of Scots, though it seems the real woman remains as foreign to us as Scotland must have seemed to her upon her return from France at the age of 19. Discover the truth for yourself by paying a visit to the many attractions that carry a link to her legacy
Linlithgow Palace
Not only was Linlithgow Palace the birthplace of Mary but after the death of her father King James V, when she was just six days old, she was subsequently named Queen of Scotland here. Mary’s predecessors had poured great wealth into refining the magnificent palace that was once a favoured dwelling of Stuart kings and queens.
Mary spent the first seven months of her life locked away in the opulent rooms of Linlithgow Palace. Her mother, Mary of Guise, had the unnerving task of protecting the little queen as custody meant power, and they were heavily ‘guarded’ by senior nobles.
This rocky start in life marks the beginning of her dramatic plight. To delve into the origins of Mary Stuart, including her parent’s legacy and their cherished residence, Linlithgow Palace is full of intrigue.
The ruin affords access to a generous supply of rooms with many prominent traces of historic designs and carvings. Roaming the stony arched corridors, climbing up the spiral staircases, and looking out from the roof tower over Linlithgow Loch give you a sense of the place. Peering from a height into the large courtyard, it’s easy to let your imagination take hold and picture a busy 16th century community scuttling to and from their daily routines. Don’t forget to pay your respects to the late queen at the Mary, Queen of Scots statue just outside the Palace.
Dumbarton Castle
At five years of age Mary was betrothed to the Dauphin Francois in efforts to unite Scotland and France. Once the union was made legitimate, Mary was transported to Dumbarton Castle to make her journey to Paris. Sailing from the castle, Mary was unaware if she would ever return to her native land. It was here that Mary’s future perhaps looked its brightest.
Like Mary, Dumbarton Castle is linked to many dramatic tales. Once considered one of Scotland’s greatest strongholds, the medieval castle is surrounded by Dumbarton Rock; a volcanic plug active over 350 million years ago. Climb the 500 steps to see far reaching views over the River Clyde and Loch Lomond. Dumbarton Castle has endured being sacked by Vikings, been used as a fortress, and has links to the Scottish Wars of Independence.
Palace of Holyroodhouse
Following the death of Francois, Mary returned to Scotland in 1561. The Palace of Holyroodhouse was Mary’s residence for the following five years. Here you can visit Mary’s apartment and bedchambers, often deemed by many to be the most famous room in Scotland. After growing up in France, and gaining a French accent, Mary had to reaffirm her position of power and gain the respect of her countrymen. She would often hold impassioned religious debates at the Palace. Her second marriage to her cousin Henry Stuart took place while at Holyroodhouse.
It was also here that Mary witnessed the callous murder of her Italian secretary, David Rizzio. It is said he was stabbed 56 times, the assassination ordered by her jealous husband, Lord Darnley. After the bloody murder Mary forbade anyone to clean up the blood-soaked floor, and to this day the stain remains in the Outer Chamber of the Palace.
As well as exploring the rich historical figures that populated the Palace before and after Mary’s residence, wandering around her bedchamber, supper room and outer chamber is perhaps the most intimate way of connecting with the tragic queen.
Craigmillar Castle
After the murder of David Rizzio, Mary journeyed to Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh. Behind these castle walls a plot began to brew to murder Mary’s husband, Lord Darnley. An agreement named the Craigmillar Bond was formed and Darnley is thought to have been smothered shortly after. It is not known if Mary had any involvement in the murder of her second husband.
Craigmillar Castle is often complimented as one of the best-preserved castles in the country. The impressive ruin allows access from the top of the fine tower house down to the murky basements.
Lochleven Castle
Her controversial (forced) third marriage to the protestant Lord Bothwell at the Palace of Holyroodhouse sparked an uprising. After she surrendered, Mary was imprisoned in Lochleven Castle in 1567 in Loch Leven. Mary spent a year imprisoned on the small island. During her imprisonment she suffered a miscarriage, losing twins, and it was here that she was forced to abdicate or die. Despite such losses, she made a daring escape from the island, while her crown was passed to her infant son.
Today, Lochleven Castle is accessible via a short boat trip from April through to October. Despite its picturesque location, it’s easy to reflect on the solitude Mary most likely endured here after suffering defeat. Crossing the loch just as she would have done, standing in the tower rooms where the queen was imprisoned, and looking out at the views she would have beheld makes her presence almost palpable.
Dundrennan Abbey
Built in the 12th century, Dundrennan Abbey is nestled in a remote glen near Kirkcudbright. This Cistercian abbey is where Mary spent her last night on Scottish soil. Mary gathered her remaining strength and made plans to take control of Dumbarton Castle. After her army of 6000 men was intercepted en route, she was forced to flee, eventually arriving at Dundrennan Abbey.
Now a ruin, the ancient abbey’s secluded positioning has a peaceful countenance; effective for clearing thoughts. Perhaps the abbey gave the queen a renewed sense of hope that she could one day find peace. Here, Mary made the difficult decision to seek the protection of her cousin, England's Queen Elizabeth I, and travel south.
Macdonald Houstoun House
Built in the 16th century, Houstoun Manor House, near Livingston, is said to be a residence where Mary, Queen of Scots would often be entertained.
John Shairp of Houstoun was an advocate of Mary. A little cottage now known as the Woman House, attached to the historic manor, is believed to have been where she would sleep when a guest of the Shairps. When she was executed in 1587, Thomas Shairp locked the door to the room where she had slept, and it was never again used.
Fast forward to present day and Houstoun Manor remains a luxurious, yet respectfully modernised, setting. And, as you guessed, the Woman House was reopened and now takes pride of place as the Honeymoon Suite, offering guests the rare experience of sleeping in the same room as the queen.
As a guest at Macdonald Houstoun House you can explore the virtually unchanged courtyard and manor grounds, complete with the old well. Among items at Houstoun are a pair of hawking gloves and a beautiful glass cabinet, which are said to have been presented by Mary.
Highlights include the Jeremy Wares fine dining experience in the 16th century tower, and the Vaulted Bar located in the historic and atmospheric cellars.
Macdonald Houstoun House, 0344 879 9043,Uphall, West Lothian, EH52 6JS. Visit www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk
Mary Queen of Scots is in cinemas now.
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