Most of the classic wines of the world have spawned their own mimics and in many cases the copies give the old masters a really good run for their money, but the one style that no one has managed to copy is Chablis. The reason is quite simply geology! Chablis lies on a unique substrata of chalk and with the cool climate producing chardonnays with a higher acidity than most, the combination of flavours is quite unique. Chablis has been described over the years as bone suckingly dry, flinty, austere and steely, none of which sounds particularly attractive to be honest. Indeed, some of the poor ones have an aroma like wet nappy and a palate like damp concrete, but thankfully there are very few ugly ducklings in Chablis. That doesn't mean it’s a wine for the masses though. Chablis is for wine lovers and I mean that sincerely because you have to be open to how different it really is, and appreciate those differences. It’s a style that revels in words like pungent and intense and you have to search hard for the fruit. Sometimes it feels like a greengrocers after a burglary but when you catch a faint hint of lemon or lime, it’s a cause for celebration to be honest. Chablis is a cracking wine on a hot summer's day but it really comes out of its shell with food, especially shellfish or something like grilled salmon with a creamy sauce Mmmmm. Anyway, I've got a rather large truckle of mature cheddar and a half bottle of grand cru to test so i’ll see you next week folks.

Louis Moreau Chablis

I do love a good Moreau and this one is a cracker for the price. A flinty nose with hints of citrus fruits and a dry, refreshing palate with a dash of grapefruit.

Waitrose £17.99

Domaine de la Motte 1er cru

This is a simply outstanding Chablis and to be honest, you have to add it to your bucket list. Dry, grassy and with hints of lemon on the palate. Try this with crab salad and it will take your breath away.

Woodvintners £20.50