White wine with fish (unless you’re a Bond villain), and red wine with meat is one of the old rules of wine matching. Like most of the old rules however, it is a solid premise and a good foundation on which to base your choice.

Today we’ll explore seafood and what to have in your glass alongside the dish. The safest bets are crisp, dry whites such as Chablis, Muscadet Sur Lie, or a good Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You could also pick Sancerre, Albarino or a tasty Pecorino from the Abruzzo region in Italy. All of these wines have good acidity, which makes them a perfect foil for fish and seafood.

How you’re cooking and presenting the food will also play a part in your wine choice. A lightly seared dish will work best with a lean, clean white whereas if you’re cooking on the barbecue and adding a rich sauce, you’ll need a more luscious offering.

Oysters deserve Champagne, scallops should be served Meursault and spaghetti con vongole is best partnered with a top quality Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige in northern Italy. If you like a bit of surf ’n’ turf, here’s where you can break out the red without attracting the attention of MI6. The classic surf ’n’ turf combination of lobster and steak works equally well with a new world Pinot Noir or a modern, fruit forward Barolo.

Here are a few to whet your appetite this weekend.

Terre di Chieti Pecorino Vellodoro 2017 Umani Ronchi (Inverarity One to One, £12.49). Pecorino is a low-yielding grape, and is not the easiest to cultivate. This led to it falling out of fashion, almost to the point of extinction. In 2005, Umani Ronchi started a project to save the variety and put the wine back in our minds and on our dinner tables. It’s incredibly food friendly, but is a perfect match for coquilles saint jacques.

Saint Clair ‘James Sinclair’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (M&S, £15). This classic, zesty New Zealand Sauvignon is ideal served with a simply cooked squid. Alternatively, the squid has the character to stand up to a light red. Grab a bottle of Nebbiolo d’Alba Brumo 2015 San Silvestro (Inverarity One to One, £13.49). This ‘baby Barolo’ is made next door to the Barolo region and from the Barolo grape of Nebbiolo. It’s accessible, beautifully balanced and outstanding value for money. Cheers!