While the occupants of Downton Abbey may be able to enjoy several courses for dinner, each partnered with its own wine, the rest of us tend to open one bottle at a time and we rarely add a pudding wine to that list except perhaps at Christmas. It’s a shame really because there are some cracking styles these days and some of them are just perfect served chilled on a summer patio.

I guess the term, ‘pudding wine’ doesn’t help either with its implied suitability as a partner to something many of us don’t even eat these days but how else would you define this wonderful class of wines? When someone says sweet wine, I tend to think of the three for a tenner crap the supermarkets used to sell so I guess, for the time being, pudding wine it is, but don’t let the name stop you from exploring them this summer.

My favourites are the late harvest sauvignons from the New World and the incredible sticky Canadian ice wines, but you need to approach them in a different way to the norm. It’s not just the price that stops them being gluggers, unless of course you’re a hooray henry with a nice allowance. The style itself is almost over indulgent and incredibly rich so I tend to treat them like a port or a brandy, sipping them in small doses and savouring every mouthful – and there tends to be a lot to savour. Expect everything from ripe tropical fruits, melons, fresh cream and refreshing acidity. Here’s a couple of my favourites for the summer.

Sticky Mickey Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, NZ

Dried fruit and honey on the nose with mango, peaches and a whole fruit basket on the palate. A refreshing hint of lime on the finish. Serve it chilled for a real treat this summer.

Corney & Barrow £13.95 per half

Rustenberg Straw Wine, South Africa

Honey, peach, marmalade and lemon with just the right amount of acidity on the finish. An unusual style that makes a lovely aperitif.

Waitrose £13.49 per half