Though summer seems close at least on the calendar, the temperatures have not been promising as of late. Since I moved to Scotland, I so look forward to the sun, something that would be unheard of growing up on a 40 degree (centigrade) summer, with the restless sun above your head all day. The first sight of winter would be welcomed and cooler days would mean special treats and hot cups of chai. It is funny how your perceptions and cravings change when you move to a different country.
Growing up I would be told romantic stories cooler days approaching in my father’s childhood home in North India, as slow cooking would be placed upon their log fire and one sweet treat that would be most anticipated. My father spent his early childhood in a ‘haveli’ style home, where life revolved around a central courtyard, every meal, gathering, meeting or event took place within those four quarters. My father remembers only certain food memories, as this is one of them, when my grandmother would make banana cardamom gulgulay, warm, spiced doughnuts that celebrated the change of season, the entire courtyard would be filled with the scent of their sweetness.
My paternal grandmother (Dadi), was a rather compelling lady – Slim, tall, graceful, and even after eight children, she remained very much a woman who liked her little indulgences, and was a fountain of culinary knowledge – her recipes were in her head, and I so wish now years after she has gone, that I had asked her so much more. As a child I had only once asked her for this recipe, and I remember well, she sat there and recounted eloquently, stories of family dinners and meals, and how simple it was to make children happy with these simple doughnuts. Gulgulay are round doughnuts, still found on the corners of streets in Pakistan and India. Traditionally flavoured with banana (as my Dadi’s), cardamom aniseed and sweetened with gur (sugar cane molasses/jaggery).
My greatest regret is that I never took so many recipes from her directly, and I don’t believe that anyone got her gulgualy recipe, but I make this from a sensory recollection, from the stories told, the memories relived.
Gulgulay now have become a seasonal change treat – In Pakistan we made them as summer turned to winter, but here in Scotland, I make them as winter turns to spring to summer to autumn.
But no matter where I make them, with whatever ingredients, their essence reminds me of home.
Summer berries, aniseed and pistachio Gulgulay doughnuts
Makes about 15 small round gulgulay – Preparation: 20 mins / Cooking time: 10 minutes
50 g plain flour
1/4 tsp each of freshly ground green aniseed and cardamom seeds
1 tsp baking soda
10-20 g demerara sugar
7-8 big fat summer berries crushed with a fork into a rough pulp
2 tbsp crushed pistachios
1-2 tbsp whole milk
Vegetable oil for frying
Icing sugar to decorate
Finely crushed pistachio to decorate
Method:
1. Begin by sifting the flour, add the baking soda, spices and mix.
2. Add the sugar in the crushed brambles and then pour over the flour mixture on top. Stir until it comes together into a thick batter.
3. Add the pistachios and if you feel it is too thick (doesn’t look like a regular doughnut batter) add a tiny bit of milk. Leave to rest for about 10 minutes.
4. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan, when hot, turn the heat to very low.
5. When the batter starts to bubble when stirred (about 10 min) using 2 teaspoons drop about 3-4 small spoonfuls into the hot oil and fry one either side for about a minute each.
Dust with icing sugar and finely crushed pistachios and serve hot, they don’t last long!
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