BACK in the 1980s, Scottish food journalism was a very different animal to what it is today. For example, linking Scotland with apple growing was the equivalent of a culinary oxymoron, and anyone growing them was regarded as a bit of an eccentric. Trying to find apples worth writing about, never mind anyone who would talk about them, was a rotten assignment.
This despite the fact that 800 years ago Scotland had hundreds of orchards and grew an amazing range of the eating varieties we now call heritage, like Bloody Ploughman, Cambusnethan Pippin, Coul Blush, James Grieve, Lass o’ Gowrie and White Melrose.
They were most common in the large country estates, where orchards of up to 10,000 apple trees thrived, and in the grounds of monasteries in our city centres (much of Glasgow’s Merchant City is believed to have been built on the site of an old monastery orchard, and there were more in Govan, the Gorbals and at Paisley Abbey).
Our apples, which grew slowly and sweetly in our cooler climate, were used freely in cooking and shipped all over the world; it was a significant industry into the 19th century. It was said that the orchard that had the best workers were the ones that made the best cider.
All that changed, as we know, when refrigeration meant cheaper supplies could be imported and all we saw in supermarkets were Granny Smiths and Golden Delicious. No wonder most of our ancient orchards disappeared.
It’s estimated that up to 90 per cent of the UK’s orchards have been dug up for development or agricultural use. But the resurgence of interest in apple growing has resulted in the replanting of orchards or small groups of trees across the country, in cities as well as in rural parts. The happy result is a flourishing of artisan drinks brands using locally-grown apples as well as UK-grown, which look like enjoying a bumper harvest this year.
The 2014 National Orchard Inventory for Scotland, commissioned for Scottish Natural Heritage and the first to be carried out for more than a century, found there were orchards in 31 out of 32 local authority areas, with the Clyde Valley and Fife having the largest number of orchards at 213 and 186 respectively, out of a total of almost 2,000. Most were in private gardens and had orchards of between 30 and 100 trees. Some of them contained very old trees. Egremont Russet, James Greae, Discovery, Lord Derby, Bramley, Cox, Darce Spice, Crawley Beauty, Reverend Wilkes, Russet, Worcester and White Melrose are among the eating and cooking varieties grown.
Interestingly, the survey notes that the fruit from these trees is used within families or given away to friends. Many of the orchards had fruit left on the ground and there was very little selling.
That is now being addressed with an “apple amnesty” where discarded apples from last year’s harvest have been collected and donated by members of the public to make the craft Outaspace Apple Ale at Drygate Brewery in Glasgow, and a newly launched artisan Clyde Cider made from west of Scotland apples. I wonder if the term “core sourcing” has already been used.
Cuddybridge Apples at Innerleithen in the Borders uniquely produces hand-pressed juice from locally-grown James Grieves apples, as well as from UK-sourced Braeburn, Pink Lady and Granny Smiths. It has launched a new naturally pink juice from early new-season Discovery apples. The pink in the flesh lasts for only around six weeks, which coincides with Breast Cancer Awareness Month while also ticking all the right seasonal boxes.
This week Thistly Cross, the farmhouse cider brand made in Dunbar, East Lothian, from Scottish apples, also made an interesting announcement.
Cider is the fastest-growing drinks sector in the US, and is regarded as the second most popular craft genre, after IPA. The US is Thistly’s top international market, sales doubling in the past year in more than 40 states in keg and bottle formats. Five of its seven award-winning ciders have earned a place in America’s first dedicated cider house, Bushwacker Cider.
In a reciprocal arrangement, Thistly Cross will be distributing the organic JK’s Scrumpy Cider in cans throughout the UK (cans are increasingly being used by craft breweries as it’s thought they maintain more flavour than bottled counterparts).
John Hancox’s new venture, Clyde Cider, the first commercial west of Scotland urban cider, is made from discarded and glut apples from his community orchard projects and from ordinary people’s gardens. Brewed in Greenock at a respectable 5 per cent ABV, the first batch produced 600 litres and has gone into the Ubiquitous Chip restaurant and bars in Glasgow. At around £3 a bottle it is selling well at Valhalla’s Goat and The Cave off-sales outlets in Glasgow.
Hancox describes it as a dry craft cider, and artisan because it uses lots of locally-grown varieties. He says they’re what’s left over after all the eaters and cookers have been used up.
The 2015 vintage is currently being brewed and should be ready for sale in two months. A brilliant example of upcycling if ever I heard one.
Nice to know the modern apple industry is Scottish to the core.
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