Here's your essential guide to getting the best out of a holiday in Egypt.
Location nickname: The Mother of the World
Don't miss: Temples at Karnak
Best avoid: Absolutely all perfume and papyrus shops
Don't miss: Kushari
Best avoid: Mulukhiya
Abu Simbel and the Temples of Philae Island: Two of Upper Egypt's greatest Nubian treasures were saved from the rising waters of Lake Nasser by colossal relocation projects after the construction of the Aswan High Dam. Guided tours visit both Philae Island's Temple of Isis and the immense statues of Ramesses II at more distant Abu Simbel.
Cairo: The swirling maelstrom of humanity that is Egypt's capital isn't to everyone's taste. Recent history of mass demonstrations, revolution and popular coup d'etat have added an undoubted edge to any visit. However, head 'Downtown' to the elegant facades of Sharia Talaat Harb and take a table at Café Riche. To watch Cairenes over a glass of Omar el Khayam cabernet sauvignon can be a revelation.
Egyptian Museum: Just off Tahrir Square, during Cairo's recent tumult this landmark museum received some unwelcome visitors, though what was damaged or spirited away remains unclear. Today, with few crowds, the Mummy Room and Tutankhamun displays remain superlative, though the sheer number of artefacts combined with paltry interpretation make a reputable guide worth their fee.
Khan el Khalili: In the 14th century this was Cairo's centre for foreign traders, selling all manner of goods from spices to slaves. Today, the fragrant, convoluted alleys are still frequented by Cairenes, those in search of gold and jewellery along with those content to nurse a glass of sweet tea at one of the many atmospheric cafes.
Luxor: Thebes was an early capital of Pharaonic Egypt, the grandeur of palaces and temples excavated in modern-day Luxor and nearby Karnak reflecting this important heritage. Nearby, across the Nile lies the Valley of the Queens and the better-known Valley of the Kings, where in 1922 Howard Carter unearthed the tomb of Tutankhamun, and where his mummy still lies.
Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza: Their splendid isolation has been sullied by an encroaching greater Cairo but the enduring architectural achievements of ancient Egypt easily drop jaws today. However, almost as monumentally persistent is the hassle from camel touts, tat vendors and assorted low-life scheisters surrounding the site. Unless you're a travel savvy masochist avoid this grief by taking a reputable tour.
Red Sea: Warm, clear water and fecund marine life has long proved a draw for divers, with numerous reputable operations offering shore and boat dives. However, latterly the resorts of Taba, Dahab, Sharm el Sheik and Hurgada have broadened their appeal to those eschewing temple fatigue of Ancient Egypt in search of an uncomplicated and reliably sunny beach holiday.
Siwa Oasis: Close the Libyan border, amongst the dunes of the Great Sand Sea an abundance of natural springs historically supported settlement by Berber tribes. Isolation preserved Siwa's distinct culture for centuries, and even now it's more laid back than much of Egypt. Camp overnight in the desert, hike to an oasis or just relax over sweet tea and a shisha at one of the town's many cafes.
The Nile: Navigating from Lake Nasser and Aswan to Luxor, Cairo and Alexandria, El Nil's muddy waters are the lifeblood of rural Egypt. Experience the river from a hotel motor cruiser or get down with the kids aboard a felucca sailing boat. However, be aware that 'Drink the water of the Nile and you are destined to return…' proverbially overlooks other unfortunate side effects.
Trains: Rail travel holds a mirror to Egyptian society, being at one extreme squalid, chaotic and overcrowded and at the other, dignified, calm and comfortable. The overnight sleeper from Cairo to Luxor falls into the latter category, with air-con compartments, beds with crisp sheets, and a lounge bar carriage of leather and polished wood that harks back to another age.
This article has been produced in association with www.talkholiday.com
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