IN the wake of a deadly season that saw 11 people die or go missing on Mount Everest, Nepal has established new rules for those wishing to tackle the world’s highest mountain.
It was a particularly bad season?
One of the deadliest in recent years, a fact which has been blamed on inexperience and also on overcrowding near the summit of the 29,035ft peak.
Eleven climbers were killed or went missing in May – nine on the Nepal side and two on the Tibetan side.
In all, Everest is said to have claimed around 280 lives.
But Everest is a huge part of the economy in Nepal?
Nepal is home to eight of the world’s 14 highest mountains and drawing climbers to the area from around the globe is a key source of revenue, one that the country does not wish to lose. The number of climbing permits granted has risen nearly every year since the commercialisation of Everest took off 30 years ago.
But fears have been growing about overcrowding?
Veteran climbers have long been warning about the dangers of allowing inexperienced climbers to attempt Everest, and of the overcrowding that results.
Concern heightened after a photograph of a huge queue near the summit was widely shared online in May, showing climbers passing a frozen dead body. Elia Saikaly, a film-maker, who took the picture, said: “I cannot believe what I saw up there. Death. Carnage. Chaos.”
Nepal’s government had issued a record number of permits this season, though?
Yes, a record 381 permits were granted, so overcrowding was certainly more likely.
Rules are fairly lax at the moment then?
There are currently no restrictions on the number of climbers who can attempt the summit at a time and the problem is that most go in May when the conditions are at their most favourable. Expedition teams are free to set their own timetable for the ascent and so overcrowding again is an issue.
But things are going to change?
A high-level Nepalese panel, made up of climbing experts, agencies representing the climbing community and government officials, was set up to re-appraise the situation and they have come up with a new framework.
What will happen?
All climbers seeking a permit for Everest must now have previous high altitude mountaineering experience and training.
The commission’s report proposes that those applying must already have climbed a Nepali peak of at least 21,325ft, and must also provide a certificate proving physical fitness to demonstrate they can handle the climb. They also have to employ experienced guides in a bid to discourage solo attempts, as well as to aid the process of reaching the summit carefully.
Anything else?
The commission suggests a fee of at least £29,000 is now introduced for those wanting to tackle Everest.
And the government is also now considering requiring mandatory health check-ups at Everest Base Camp.
So the focus is on curbing the death toll and improving safety?
Yes, and making the mountain “dignified” once more.
Tourism minister, Yogesh Bhattari, said: “Everest cannot be climbed just based on one’s wishes. We are testing their health conditions and climbing skills before issuing climbing permits.
“We will take this forward by amending the laws and regulations. We will make our mountains safe, managed and dignified.”
But will the rules work?
Ang Tshering Sherpa, former president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, told the New York Times that the government in Nepal is moving in the right direction, but expressed concern over enforcement, as corruption is rife in the area.
He said of the future: “Challenges remain.”
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