IT has been handwoven and spun from pure wool in the Outer Hebrides for 150 years, and became the uniform of the hunting, shooting and fishing set for almost as long.

But now you are more likely to spot Harris Tweed on the catwalks of Milan and Paris or the streets of Tokyo than you are strolling through the Perthshire hills or the Lammermuirs.

Business is booming for the traditional industry, which is still confined to mills on the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra, as its global reach grows, thanks to a campaign to move the fabric away from its stuffy image of yesteryear.

Today, Scotland’s rugby team kickstart their World Cup campaign against Ireland after arriving in the Land of the Rising Sun last week clad in bespoke Harris Tweed blazers.

But this is just the latest appearance of the historic fabric in the Far East.

Coats, jackets and even capes and tweed trainers have long been in high demand, thanks to Japanese consumers’ eye for quality and attention to detail.

That’s the view of Ian Angus Mackenzie, chief executive of Harris Tweed Hebrides, the company which accounts for around 90% of Harris Tweed production.

Mackenzie recalls that as Japan became more prosperous in the 1960s, there was a strong demand for British heritage brands. At that time, almost all of the Harris Tweed was used for men’s outerwear.

He said sales experienced a series of peaks and troughs and it wasn’t until Harris Tweed Hebrides was formed in 2007 that the market really took off – with accessories accounting for a huge proportion of sales. “Japan continues to be our biggest export market and the brand is extremely well known there,” Mackenzie said.

The definition of Harris Tweed is enshrined in law, with clear legal criteria laid down in the Harris Tweed Act of 1993. The Orb mark which adorns all products made from the fabric is Britain’s oldest surviving certification mark and is managed and protected by the Harris Tweed Authority, a statutory body.

While the most famous tweed is the herringbone pattern, the cloth can come in dozens of forms, such as Scottish rugby’s custom navy, purple and green version.

Famous devotees have included Madonna and Doctor Who, who sported a tweed jacket while played by actor Matt Smith.

It was said that within days of pictures of Smith as The Doctor appearing online, the Harris Tweed Authority was flooded with calls asking what type of tweed it was, and where fans could get it for themselves.

Based at Shawbost on the west coast of Lewis, Harris Tweed Hebrides exports the iconic cloth to more than 60 countries and counts major design houses such as Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and YSL among its customers.

It has survived a slowdown in the industry during the early 2000s but is now on a strong footing.

Creative director Mark Hogarth said: “When the Harris Tweed brand was at its nadir, from 2003/07, it was on a life-support machine. The two markets that saved Harris Tweed were Parisian fashion houses and Japanese streetwear companies.”

He added: “It is important going forward that we have a significant market in Japan, because the attention to detail, the quality of the cut, and the overall look in Japan undoubtedly lead other markets to the belief that Harris Tweed is a quality fabric of fashion.”

Harris Tweed Hebrides chairman and former UK Trade Minister, Brian Wilson, agrees. “Japan is very important [to us] and the Harris Tweed trade mark is highly respected there. The Rugby World Cup gives us a platform to reinforce the strength and status of the brand.”

The Scottish Rugby tweed was designed to be worn by the Scotland team, council and board at official post-match functions, with the team now unofficial ambassadors for the cloth. It is hoped that the extra publicity will help weave fresh relationships with new customers, and keep the Scottish product firmly in fashion.

Scottish Rugby’s chief operating officer, Dominic McKay, said: “Scottish Rugby is delighted to continue our work with an iconic brand. Harris Tweed is recognised globally as a quality product, so we’re pleased to develop a shared international dimension and awareness of our brands.

“Harris Tweed has a well-established presence in Japan and the United States, which are both key territories for us in broadening and deepening our supporter base.”