MY dad once told me that everything comes back into fashion eventually – cardigans, bands and, in the context of this column, wines aged in amphora jars.

It sounds like something from the world of alchemy but ageing wines in amphora is actually an ancient process that started in Georgia over 6000 years ago. While it fell out of commercial fashion centuries ago, it never completely ceased. Vineyards in Georgia, Portugal, Greece and Italy amongst others produce some really cracking wines using these clay jars.

In ancient times, the jars were used because that's what they had but now wines can be aged in concrete vats, steel tanks and oak barrels and, rather like each of those, amphora jars leave their own signature on the wine. The clay allows the wine to breathe during ageing rather like using oak barrels but with none of the flavour transfer involved with wood, so you end up with a richness to the wine but no artificial flavours.

As a lifelong lover of oak, I've tended to ignore the amphora wines as a gimmick, but having tasted a few in recent months, I'm starting to realise I made a boo boo. I've been more impressed by the reds as the whites tend to taste just a bit too oxidised for me but that might just be my natural slant to reds. Anyway, here's a few corkers that have really impressed me.

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Herdade da Pimenta Amphora 2020, Casa Relvas, Portugal

Black fruits on the nose with warm brambles and hints of redcurrant on a very rich and smooth palate.

Superb with most red meat dishes and stews. £16.95

Herdade do Rocim, ‘Nat Cool Fresh from Amphora Red, Atlantejano 2020

The light colour in the glass is quite deceiving because there's plenty to go at here. Stewed summer fruits on a well rounded palate. Delightful on its own but well adapted to complex and even spicy dishes.

Pop Wines Glasgow £20