and the experience is not sugar-coated. After months of 16-hour days, punctuated by on-off lockdowns, the strain begins to show, not least on Toni who has to learn, from scratch, how to run a professional kitchen. When Fogle returns a year later what will he find?

If you must have a TV presenter to hand in these situations, Fogle is your man. He’s not pushy, but he is no pushover either. He will even pick up a paintbrush and get stuck in, for a wee while anyway.

Babies and horror don’t make an obvious partnership, unless we’re talking nappy changes. But when it works, as in Rosemary’s Baby, watch out. The Baby (Sky Atlantic, Thursday, 9pm/9.40pm) sets itself an even tougher task of being a comedy horror.

Natasha (Michelle de Swarte), a late thirtysomething chef, is fed up. The pals who used to have a laugh at poker nights now only have eyes, and time, for their babies. Who would want to be tied to a tiny tyrant dictating your every move? Not Tash.

Naturally she ends up in just that situation. It’s a long, bizarre story, but one that’s deftly set up by creators Lucy Gaymer and Sian Robbins-Grace (Sex Education). Tash has been landed with not just any baby. Wherever this little guy goes, mayhem follows.

The Baby is an HBO production, so slick writing and production come as standard. It’s fizzing with ideas, and de Swarte delivers a star-making turn as Tash. Where it might be too much for some is in the grim as the grave humour. The Baby pushes buttons and boundaries all over the place. Several times I thought, “Okay, that’s where I’m cashing in my chips,” only to keep watching to see how the story turns out. There is no sleeping like a baby after this.