When was the last time you tried a tawny port? Tawnies are my guilty secret and while the original ones from Portugal still reign supreme I love them from all over the world. Due to protection rights on wine styles, the new world variants are not supposed to use the word “port” in the labelling, which to me is nothing short of ridiculous given that the style itself is unique. It’s like not being able to use the word “wine”.

Anyhow, eccentricities aside, I’m in love with it wherever it comes from, including a recent find from Argentina.

Yes, I did say Argentina, which is to port what Gary Lineker is to restraint. It’s called Malamado Fortified Malbec and it’s just sublime for the price. Fortified Malbec of all things ... you need a tomahawk steak with that one.

Anyway, whether you buy from the new or old world, try to get the oldest you can afford because the interaction with the oak is the key to a good one. I aim for 10 years old as a minimum but the oldest I've tasted was a 1939 Quinta Do Noval, which we had about 10 years ago and it was a creamy toffee and nut heaven. Ah, the memories are still good.


Quinta Do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny, Portugal

Oh, I do love this one. On the nose it starts off like an old-fashioned ruby with autumn fruits and alcohol to the fore but the palate is a mesmerising cacophony of butterscotch, fruit cake and nuts with a silky finish.

Oddbins £27.50


De Bortoli 21 Year Old, Old Boys Tawny, Australia

Crikey, this is good. With 21 years in barrel, it’s evolved into a dark, rich wine with cocoa, toffee, warm raisins and nuts. Stunning

waitrosecellar.com £20.99