Chateau X

Glasgow

TIMINGS will turn out to be an occasional issue at Chateau X, like when we have eaten half our sides before our steak even turns up.

But what a steak. A seared, caramelised hunk of Côte de Boeuf sliced across the grain, meat sprawling pinkly, appetisingly and seductively, salt sprinkled roughly on top.

This then begins a game of pass-the-side-dish between myself, Iain and the waitress as things are shuffled here, there and everywhere to make space; then water glasses, bottles, table decorations are momentarily guided onto the floor (by me) before being taken away.

All to cope with Chateau X’s rather small table sizes. But with juicy aromas wafting here and there… the sight of that hunk of beef.. all this dance does is heighten our anticipation.

And still to come is another steak, the restaurant’s signature steak, technically the only steak on the menu. Their unique selling point at £35: the chateaubriand for two.

Except it isn’t. Coming, that is. Actually, the whole ordering process was a bit of a culinary car crash on my part. Not sure why but I thought today’s special, that Côte, was £35 and weighed 500g, even though I did go up to the meat fridge and look at it. It turns out to be double the price. And double the weight. Ooft.

Somehow in the confusion (caused by me) our chirpy, cheery waitress didn’t realise, or maybe couldn’t believe I wanted the chateaubriand too, and this blunder doesn’t emerge until the first steak has landed. But the chateaubriand is the only reason I’m here, the can’t-actually-leave-without-trying-the-thing thang. It being the unique selling point of this, yet another restaurant from Six-By-Nico Simone.

Thirty five bangers per couple, kiss-me-quick, pile ’em high quality steaks, in an only-one-main course gig like the once smash-hit French chain Relais de L’Entrecote. So a chateaubriand is now ordered. And it’s here fast. How did they do? Sous vide overnight then sear? Pre-cook before service?

Steak being a dish that is usually enhanced by resting, and actually pretty good for the wham-bam restaurant model, that’s not a problem.

The chateaubriand is nowhere near as impressively or appetisingly coloured as the Cote, and not that hot either, but still enough for two easily and, hey, £35.

Timings? As far as the meat is concerned? Perfect for medium rare on the Côte, not far off on the chateaubriand which is a tad further gone.

Not so good at the door when I came in though and stood awkwardly for just too long while they faffed about cleaning the only uncleaned table amongst an unoccupied row of four, muttering something about getting it ready. Then took me to a completely different one through the back. Uh?

Decor? This place may actually be, so far anyway, a field of broken culinary dreams. There’s been so many different restaurants come and gone on this site and it’s certainly not a chateau. Think tight little bistro painted black, gold highlights, green leather, chandelier, some, erm (in Glasgow) weapons on the wall. It’s kinda like your favourite pub – seen in the daylight. But there is an open kitchen flashing and flaring away.

Food? Sides? Three and a half carrots tossed in beef dripping, tarragon pesto, great money if you can get it. A good looking and all-eaten broccoli with roasted peanut crumble. And skinny rooster fries which should be a lesson for all kitchens. Iain’s, across the table, are golden, lithe and attractive. Mine, exactly the same dish, are broken, small, oily and overcooked.

There were ox doughnuts to start, billed as snacks, which arrived after the side dishes. A hunk of bread and beef fat butter came then too.

The £2 chimichurri sauce was forgettable. But it’s all about the steaks. That £70 Côte de Boef? A lot of money perhaps, and accidentally ordered really, but a show-stopper, full of flavour and texture. The chateaubriand? For the price? Certainly not bad.

Menu: Only one main on the menu technically, a chateaubriand for two for £35. Interesting proposition. Daily specials too. We had the £70 Côte De Boeuf, accidentally and luckily ordered by an idiot (me). 4

Chateau X

10 Claremont Street

Finnieston

Glasgow

Tel 0141 486 7666

Menu: Only one main on the menu technically, a chateaubriand for two for £35. Interesting proposition. Daily specials too. We had the £70 Côte De Boeuf, accidentally and luckily ordered by an idiot (me). 4/5

Service: Saved by pleasant, chirpy cheery, how-was-your-day attitude from good waitress; kitchen got sides, snacks and steak out of sync and entrance welcome not the best. 4/5  

Atmosphere: it’s not quite the size of a shoe, but it’s no chateau, tiny tables (though some couples seem to get put at double-doubles), black and gold steak decor. Not entirely convincing. Bustley though. 3/5 

Price: That astonishingly proportioned  £70 for two Côte De Boeuf turned out to be good value, the chateaubriand at £35 likewise, the sides are where they get you - but who doesn’t do that? 5/5 

Food: Both steaks were well handled, the Côte was actually excellent, sides less impressive overall, but it’s a concept and not a bad one. 7/10

23/30