A roast with the most

The goal is for the flesh to be succulent and flavoursome, the skin gilded and crisp. In America for Thanksgiving, I once witnessed my first and only brining of a turkey. Immersed for an hour per pound, the mixture of water, sugar, salt, apple juice and herbs breaks down meat protein so it absorbs the moisture of the marinade, effectively injecting extra juiciness. It was certainly moist, but devoured precious fridge space during the lengthy marinating process.

Instead, roasting the turkey crown and legs separately ensures each receives only the cooking time needed, reducing the risk of overcooking. A butcher can remove and bone out the legs with notice, simplifying carving. You can stuff the legs or the neck cavity, or bake stuffing in dishes separately. I know some like to then roast the crown upside down for most of the cooking time to protect the breast. I prefer shielding it with streaky bacon until the last 30 minutes. Above all, after cooking remember to rest the meat, loosely covered with tinfoil, for at least 20 minutes – which also allows time for finishing off the extras.

Turkey legs with prune, apricot and chestnut stuffing

Recipes serve 6-8 based on starting with a whole turkey of around 6kg

Two turkey legs, removed from the carcass by the butcher, boned out and sinews removed (ask well in advance for this, especially at this time of year); each leg will weigh around 1.7kg

120g unsalted butter

Olive oil

200ml white wine

For the stuffing:

1 decent-sized glass of madeira, brandy or port, to soak the dried fruit

80g soft dried apricots

80g pitted prunes

1 medium onion, diced

250g fresh white breadcrumbs

500g cooked vacuum-packed chestnuts, crumbled roughly

600g good-quality sausages

1 dsstsp thyme leaves

Grated zest of 1 small lemon

1 dsstsp chopped parsley

1. Warm the madeira and soak the apricots and prunes in it for 10 minutes, then lift them out and chop them finely but roughly. Boil the madeira until it reduces to a syrup. While you're doing this, place the diced onion in a mixing bowl. Stir in the breadcrumbs, then add the chestnuts and soaked fruit. Slit and peel away the skins of the sausages then mix the meat in with the other ingredients. Add the thyme, lemon zest and parsley then season with salt and a little pepper. Stir in the reduced madeira and set aside to chill. (This can be done a day in advance.)

2. To stuff the legs, place the first leg skinside down on a clean work surface parallel to you, not pointing away. The goal is an even layer of meat across the leg, so trim flesh from plump areas – such as the thigh – and transfer the pieces to thinner areas. Then, using a meat bat, the base of a sturdy saucepan or a rolling pin, hammer out the meat to roughly 1cm thickness. Cover the surface with three layers of clingfilm as you go to help prevent too many holes and tears appearing (though don't be concerned if a few crop up). It's crucial that the meat is no more than 1cm thick so you can roll it into a thick sausage when stuffed. Season the meat lightly with salt and fresh ground black pepper then spread half of the stuffing over the meat, almost to the edge. Roll up the meat and stuffing to give a long, fat sausage, then secure it with string at 3cm intervals. Repeat with the remaining leg.

3. Set the oven to 180C/gas mark 4.

4. Soften the butter (leaving it at room temperature is fine) then smear it generously all over the legs. Place them in a roasting tin, moisten with olive oil and the wine, cover with tinfoil and roast for 90 minutes. The dish is done when the juices run clear when tested with the point of a skewer. Remove to a warm place to rest, still covered with tinfoil.

Roast crown of turkey

The turkey, with legs and wings removed is the crown.

100g butter, at room temperature

2tsp salt & 2tsp fresh ground black pepper

1 turkey crown from a 6kg bird

10-12 rashers of streaky bacon

2 medium onions, peeled and cut into six rounds each

3 cups of boiling water

1. Place the butter in a bowl, beat in the salt and pepper then rub it all over the turkey skin. Lay the rashers of bacon over the skin and refrigerate until needed – this can be done a day in advance.

2. Bring the turkey out of the fridge 45 minutes before cooking. Set the oven to 220C/gas mark 7. Place the onions in the base of a roasting tray, set a wire rack or trivet over them and put the turkey on top. When it is time to place the bird in the oven, pour the boiling water into the tray then place the tray in the oven with the open cavity facing you. Roast for 20-25 minutes, by which time the bacon will look almost burned.

3. Remove the bacon and reduce the oven temperature to 180C/gas mark 4. Cook for about 12 minutes per 1kg, protecting the skin with buttered tinfoil if required. Cook until the juices run clear when the thickest part of the breast is pierced with a skewer and the skin is brown and crispy. Cooked like this even a large bird (6kg-7kg legless weight) shouldn't take more than 1.5-2 hours. The legs in the above recipe take up to but no more than 90 minutes, so they can be placed in the oven at this point and both will be ready at the same time.

4. Once roasted and checked, remove the crown from the oven to rest, covered loosely with tinfoil, for at least 20 minutes before carving, giving you a clear run for final cooking of vegetables and so on. Even roast potatoes can be roasted in this time too if you blanch them in boiling water, bringing them up from cold, then putting them into a hot roasting tray with hot oil or dripping at once. The juices collected at the bottom of the roasting tray can be sieved then skimmed of excess fat and used to make gravy.