The spread of rainbow trout from its native North America can be pinned on its versatility and flavour.

A freshwater fish, it's a member of the salmon family and, like its relatives, can grow to a fair size - the largest on record weighed almost 26kg, though 3.5kg is typical for an adult rainbow trout.

The fish have an earthy flavour that finds its perfect accompaniment in strong flavours such as lemon juice, garden herbs and buttery sauces. I prefer to keep the skin on, as it achieves a wonderful crispness when roasted in a pan.

Trout with fricassee of creamed peas, lettuce and bacon

Serves 4

2 carrots

300g fresh peas, shelled

50g diced bacon

250ml chicken stock

100ml double cream

20g unsalted butter

2 baby gem lettuce, finely sliced

4 rainbow trout fillets

Salt

Plain flour, for dusting

2-3tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 lemon

Peel the carrots and cut them into cubes the same size as the peas, then cook the peas and carrots in separate pans of seasoned boiling water until tender.

Place the bacon in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil then pass through a sieve and set aside to cool.

Pour the chicken stock into a pan and boil until reduced by three-quarters. Add the cream and reduce by half then whisk in the butter. Add the peas, carrots, bacon and lettuce to the pan and warm gently until hot.

Season the trout fillets with salt and coat each one with a light dusting of plain flour.

Warm the olive oil in a large frying pan then, when you feel a good heat rising, add the fillets and cook on each side for 2 minutes so they turn golden brown (the cooking time may need to be adjusted depending on the thickness of the fillets).

To finish, place the fillets on a large serving dish and squeeze a little lemon juice over the top of each one. Spoon the fricassee of peas over the trout and serve with boiled new potatoes.