THIS has not been a summer of beating sunshine, orchards laden with apples and pears, kitchen gardens groaning with plums, damsons and greengages ripening against baked stone walls, or bounteous harvests flooding our farmers' markets with a glut of late-summer treats.
However, despite the weather's best efforts to put a dampener on things, I can't resist the seasonal bottling and preserving of fruits.
Before the advent of refrigeration, such preserving, bottling, jam-making and stewing of fruits was an essential part of preparing a winter store of goodies for colder days. This was especially true in summers during which the harvest provided a surplus of fruits which could not be consumed fresh.
Now the bottled fruits, chutneys or preserves of patient but understanding home cooks make fabulous gifts, a personal way to thank someone, or a treat for the eyes as well as the tummy – few things are more satisfying than a well-stocked larder shelf of home- filled jars.
Sealable jars and pots are essential kit, as are some simple hygiene rules during bottling. It is not complicated and this kind of cooking, in my view, is the most rewarding of all: it will last you weeks, perhaps be shared or harboured secretly, and the aromas escaping from your bubbling pans mean you are sharing in a tradition stretching back centuries.
Damson and ginger chutney
2kg damsons, washed and stalks removed
2 small cinnamon sticks
1dsstsp cloves
2 large onions, finely diced
6 granny smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into chunks
3 cloves of garlic, sliced
200g fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 red chillies, finely chopped (optional)
500ml cider vinegar
600g dark soft brown sugar
600g granulated sugar
1tsp all-spice powder
1tsp ground ginger
1tsp table salt
1. Place the damsons in a large pot and add just enough water to cover the base to a depth of 1cm. Heat slowly and steadily at a gentle simmer until the fruit starts collapsing then remove from the heat to cool. Spread the damsons on to a large tray, put on a pair of rubber gloves and work your way through the compote, removing the stones as you go and placing them in a small bowl.
2. In a piece of muslin, combine the stones, cinnamon sticks and cloves then tie up to make a small sachet. Heat a large pan. Add vegetable oil and start to sweat the onion, apple, garlic, ginger and chilli without colouring for a few minutes. Add the vinegar and sugar and warm through to melt the sugar, then add the remaining ingredients and damsons. Add the sachet then stir well to incorporate.
3. Bring the pan to a gentle simmer and cook until a thick jam-like consistency is reached, stirring occasionally to prevent the mix catching on the base of the pan. This will take a couple of hours. To test whether the chutney is ready, drag a wooden spoon across the base of the pan. If the gap doesn't close immediately, it's time to bottle the chutney.
4. Ensure the jars are washed, sterilised and warm – the simplest way is to put them in a dishwasher for a quick cycle and then bottle at once. Fill the jars when the chutney is hot, cover with wax paper and seal with a lid at once. Leave to cool then wipe down the outside and label, storing for a couple of months before using.
Spiced chutney of plums and greengages
1kg ripe plums
1kg ripe greengages
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
450g onions, peeled and chopped
500g granny smith or bramley apples, peeled and chopped
200g sultanas
2 star anise
4 cardamom pods, bruised with a knife
200g granulated sugar
400ml white wine vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200ml port
1. Cut the plums and greengages in half and remove the stones. Place these in a small muslin parcel and tie it securely. Chop the flesh of the fruit and place it in a large saucepan with the garlic cloves, onions, apples, sultanas, star anise, cardamom pods, sugar and 300ml of the white wine vinegar. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Slowly bring to a simmer over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
2. Add the muslin bag of stones then gently simmer for 25-30 minutes, until the fruit is collapsed and the onions and apple are tender. Add the remaining white wine vinegar and port and cook for a further 30 minutes, stirring often, or until thickened. If it still seems a bit runny, simmer for a little longer.
3. Divide the chutney between hot sterilised jars. Place a disc of wax paper directly on top of the hot chutney, seal with airtight lids and store in a cool dark place for at least a month before using. The chutney will keep for up to six months if kept out of sunlight. Refrigerate once opened and use within two months, serving with cold meat, a pork pie or cheese.
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