ONCE upon a time, cheese soufflés seemed to invade every restaurant menu in the land.

Be it a hot starter, a middle course or the cheese course, the twice-cooked cheese soufflé was loved by all - guests and cooks alike. From there, it was a short step to the much copied dish gracing the tables of dinner parties every Saturday night, as hostesses realised the dish offered great versatility and reliability, while always drawing the much longed-for admiration.

Then it seemed to vanish, or at least fall from favour. The sweet dessert soufflé (not twice-cooked) delicately shimmered its way into our affections instead and has remained there, becoming neither dated nor unfashionable. A soufflé is always on our dessert menu; I suspect a mini revolution would ensue if I attempted to remove it.

But I have no wish to remove the soufflé: it is not just one of our most popular desserts with guests, it also happens to be one of my personal favourites to devour. At this time of year when the weather urges us all to get involved with more time-consuming dishes, exploring the soufflé at home is really worth the trouble. Forget winter walks; indulge in winter cooking.

Be prepared to experiment. Uneven or sunken specimens are not failures but, rather, they are results, guiding you towards excellence. The reward, ultimately, will be feather-light elegance.

Twice-cooked cheese soufflé

Recipes serve 6

40g unsalted butter, melted

220g grated parmesan

6 fresh free-range eggs

400g soft goats' cheese

160ml double cream

1 tsp chopped thyme leaves

1 tsp chopped parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 210C. Grease six oven-proof soup plates or large wide flat-ish bowls, coming three quarters of the way up the inside of the bowls, with the melted butter then sprinkle in a quarter of the parmesan to line the bowls.

2. Separate the eggs. Place the yolks in a medium-sized bowl and whisk briefly to make them smooth then beat in the goats' cheese. Stir in the cream (do not over whisk), then fold in the herbs and half of the remaining parmesan. Season lightly with a little salt and a few gentle twists of fresh black pepper. (Dish can be prepared to this point in advance.)

3. In another large, clean bowl, whisk the egg whites, with a small pinch of salt, until firm peaks are formed. Using a rubber spatula, fold one spoonful of the egg white through the cheese mix to loosen it. Now add half the egg white and fold carefully through. When it is mostly mixed, add the rest of the whisked egg white and finish folding gently but completely.

4. Divide the mix evenly between the bowls. Sprinkle the remaining parmesan on top. Transfer to the oven at once; you may find it helpful to have the plates on two trays so you can transfer swiftly without losing heat from the oven. Bake for 10 minutes (possibly 12) or until the mix has puffed up and the surface is golden. Serve immediately as a starter as it is, or with a green salad and some crusty bread to make it slightly more substantial.

Hot baked chocolate soufflé

Makes 8 individual ramekins

450ml whole milk

1 vanilla pod or a dash of good vanilla essence

90g unsalted butter at room temperature plus a little extra for lining the ramekins

60g plain flour

20g cocoa powder plus a little extra for lining the ramekins

6 whole eggs, separated

6 egg whites

90g dark bitter chocolate, roughly chopped into small pieces

1 dsstsp rum

3 tbsp caster sugar

1. Bring the milk and vanilla to the boil. Meanwhile, sift the flour and cocoa powder onto the butter and beat until smooth with a wooden spoon or spatula then pour the milk over this mixture. Stir briefly then return to the saucepan. Return to the heat and, stirring steadily, bring to the boil, simmer for one minute then remove form the heat. Add the rum and leave to stand for five minutes, covered with a disc of greaseproof paper

2. Remove the paper disc and to the pan, whisk in the chocolate and the egg yolks. Beat thoroughly then recover with the paper disc and leave to cool. This must be done to this point in advance

3. Heat oven to 190C. Butter the insides of the ramekins with a pastry brush, brushing upwards from base to top. Add cocoa powder to the first ramekin, turn the ramekin so the cocoa powder coats all the inside, then tip out the excess into the next. Continue until all are done.

4. Combine all the egg whites either in a large bowl (if using an electric hand held blender) or the bowl of a mixer with a whisk attachment. Whisk until frothy then gradually add the caster sugar a little at a time while still whisking until firm peaks are reached and all the sugar is used. Briefly beat the chocolate base once again to ensure it is smooth. Add a quarter of the whisked egg whites and fold in to loosen the mix then gradually fold in the whisked egg whites a little at a time. Divide between the prepared ramekins. With a palette knife, smooth off the top so it is level. With the tip of a small knife, run around the rim to loosen the mix from the edge so it doesn't catch or stick. Place the dishes on two trays then bake at once in the hot oven for 11-14 minutes, until risen. Place on small under-plates and serve at once, dusted with icing sugar if you wish.

Geoffrey Smeddle is the chef patron of The Peat Inn, by St Andrews, Fife, Ky15 5LH 01334 840206 www.thepeatinn.co.uk