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Tartare of roe deer, shaved fennel and mustard mayonnaise

It's no secret that I adore steak tartare, which few dishes can match for the speed and simplicity of preparation and serving.

Ensure your butcher trims every hint of sinew from the cut of roe deerphotograph: alan donaldson
Ensure your butcher trims every hint of sinew from the cut of roe deerphotograph: alan donaldson

It's a dish that uses techniques which can be applied to red meats other than beef. One of them, roe deer (one of which I was pictured with in this magazine last month), is extremely lean – on account of being the smallest deer native to Scotland – and very tasty due to their being relatively fussy eaters: damp, clean grass, shoots, leaves and berries make up their diet of choice. If your butcher stocks them I suggest you buy either the loin or the haunch, both of which should be wholly trimmed of sinew.

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