ERNEST Cockburn, author of Port Wine And Oporto, published in 1949, once said that "the first duty of Port is to be red".

I think even Ernest would be horrified by Geoff's suggestion that tepid water could be used in an emergency in place of white port when soaking your apricots.

White Port is slowly increasing in popularity, but it is still relatively difficult to find on the high street. This is a terrible shame as it makes for a lovely aperitif when served with marinated olives and smoked almonds, and it is vital (even irreplaceable) when soaking dried fruit.

You should feel duty-bound to keep a bottle in your drinks cabinet. I go one step further, and keep my bottle in the fridge. I would suggest trying it before your meal in a tall glass over ice with tonic, and a sprig of mint if you're feeling fancy.

White port is made in more or less the same way as red, except using white grapes and with a shorter maceration time. The grapes in question include Boal, Folgasao and Codega and the wines are vinified and aged separately in large oak vats for up to three years for a more mellow character. They are then blended together to create a rich, smooth off-dry style. You'll occasionally see a sweeter version called "lagrima", although it is the drier styles that are becoming popular with those in the know.

The best one that I've found is the Taylor's Chip Dry White Port (Waitrose, £13.29), which was first created way back in 1934. The wine is fermented for longer to create a crisper, fresher style and the palate is very fruity with a rich, nutty complexity. Dare to be different, and try one this weekend.