If you are looking for a publication that can – and will – tell how amazing the culture and gastronomy of Scotland is, you’re looking in the right place.

Yes, the good old Herald goes to great effort to promote our produce and contribution both within our own borders, and in the world. It’s an ongoing, probably endless project. Given that within Scotland we all (sort of) have ‘wee country syndrome’, such appeals often take the form of pieces saying: ‘Look! We can do it just as well as them big countries’, and so on.

For my part in this, I have to defend the two main alcoholic drinks we produce. One is an easy job because we are the best in the world, and the other is a slightly harder task, where – like everyone else – I have to protest our quality in relation to more established neighbours.

With whisky, it is an easy job; there are no rivals. We make the best whisky in the world, hands down. And despite lots of wonderful competitors coming from places like Ireland, Wales and Japan, I don’t expect this to change any time soon. Job done, ‘nuff said.

However, we are also a beer nation (I have written about the joys of beer before – read it here). Unfortunately, as we are a small beer nation that is bordered by one of the best big beer nations in the world, this is a slightly harder case to put forward. Think I’m underselling us? Take the case of the ‘country pub’...

You see, I like a walk in the country from time to time, and I happen to think we live in one of the best countries in the world for this. Like many who share this fondness, I like a pint when I’m done. Sadly, if I want a pint of local beer or something a bit different, I’m almost always disappointed. Our country pubs are almost invariably supplied exclusively by the big breweries that supply most of the pubs in Scotland. I’ve said it before, this is not snobbery: I have nothing against the likes of Tennent’s Lager or Belhaven Best, but I really don’t like it when they are the only choice.

Now, take the case of the country pub in the north of England. Invariably, despite just as a high rates of brewery ownership/sponsorship, the beer ranges are by and large, way better. In fact, in my experience I’m more likely to find interesting Scottish ales in pubs in the north of England than in Scotland! The reason for this little irony is that the Scottish people simply don’t drink enough of our own beer.

I have previously bemoaned the pub scene in Glasgow for its lack of beer and ale availability. Wetherspoons aside, there is a mere handful of really good ale pubs in the city. I’ve been in towns in England with total populations that would just about fill one of Glasgow’s three big football stadia, but they still had more ale pubs than we do! True story.

If you think I’m being unusually cynical about Scottish beer culture, hear me out. You see, it’s all very well to sing the praises of Scottish success stories like Brewdog and Williams Brothers, but we should also note that these two (relatively) new breweries, while brilliant, are no underdogs. They are now part of the establishment; between them they supply multiple UK supermarkets, and own pubs from Aberdeen to London.

So spare a thought for the wee breweries; you can start with a few modest recommendations from me! If you want crisp and zingy golden ale, look no further than Hollyrood, a pale ale by Edinburgh’s Stewart Brewing. It’s a multi-award winning beer and it’s frankly easy to see why. If you want chunky red ale that has a good, firm structure, and a fresh hoppy, bitterness, try the awesome Red Rocker from the Cromarty Brewing Co. Nom.

For those who are into darker flavours and richer styles, there’s the adorable Black Isle brewery’s Organic Porter. Semi-sweet and surprisingly light, but with a deep and delicious mocha bitterness on the finish. And if you are after something completely different, grab some of the Hebridean Brewing Company’s spiffing Berserker Export Pale Ale. Strong, malty and versatile, this has a lovely sweet-and-savoury aspect that suggests a hint of sea air – a little taste of Stornoway!

Admittedly, all these beers aren’t always the easiest to find in steady supply - they are independents after all! At the very least, next time you see a pint or bottle of Scottish beer you don’t recognise – just try it.

Variety is the spice of life, and by gum does Scottish beer want more variety!

Reading Between the Wines: one for the road?

Follow Anthony on Twitter