WE have barely stepped out of the car before Mary Bishop-Hunt greets us cheerfully on the gravel, immediately offering to carry my case.

Mary and her husband Graham have lived on the north side of Barra for many years, but the English couple are aware it will take a few more (if ever) before they are classed as natives, although I'm hard pushed to find a question she's doesn't know the answer to about the island.

Mary is learning Gaelic in the evenings and delights in peppering the conversation with phrases when she learns I have began Gaidhlig myself.

The couple own the former schoolhouse, Northbay House, which was built in 1882 in a quiet, sheltered hollow at the head of the beautiful Loch na Obe.

The house is on the island bus route and 15 minutes by car from the ferry terminal at Castlebay and Traigh Mhòr beach, for one of the world's only scheduled airplane beach landings.

The four-star hospitality begins before you walk through the door. As soon as we are settled, Mary offers us a scone straight out of the oven.

The rooms are cosy, spotlessly clean and spacious, with an adjacent lounge to watch TV or enjoy a relaxed read of the school log books. There is WiFi but signal strength may very in certain weather and tidal conditions, however the couple know all the island hotspots.

Self caterers have access to a fully-equipped kitchen-dining room, with views to Loch Obbe. A twin bedroom, with en-suite wet room suitable for wheelchair users, and the airing cupboard, containing spare linen. A staircase leads to the galleried lounge, which means the accommodation is unsuitable for children under 12 years.

The breakfast is outstanding with practically every taste catered for. Mary appears every so often from the kitchen to offer 'any more of any more'.

The couple don't offer an evening meal but can arrange bookings at the one of the hotels in Castlebay or the lovely Cafe Kisimul, which offers an unsual hybrid of Italian and Indian food and was voted one of the best places in the UK for a curry.

It's worth hiring a car to make the most of a weekend trip, which is not complete without a visit to Vatersay, the island joined by a causeway, where my relatives live and boasts one of the most beautiful beaches I'm ever likely to sink my toes into.

This is the kind of B&B that would make you think twice about booking into a hotel. Wonderful service, without being intrusive, five-star accommodation and a fabulous breakfast. Just don't forget the midgie repellant.

Caroline Wilson was a guest of Northbay House. Bed and breakfast starts at £38 per person per night. Single occupancy from £48. Discounts available for longer stays. Self-catering starts at £375 per week. See www.isleofbarra.com/northbayhouse.htm. Loganair operates daily flights between Glasgow and Barra. Fares start from £39.99 including all taxes and a free 20kg luggage allowance, while under 12s are entitled to a 33 per cent discount. Call 0371 700 2000, or visit www.flybe.com