AS the festive period approaches, I find myself longing to be home. The past few years my Christmas holidays have been spent in the UK, but this year, I decided that I must go back and celebrate with my family.
Though Christmas is not celebrated in the same way as it is here, I do remember there was always a buzz around at this time in Pakistan. Universally, December brings with it a moment to rejoice the end of the year; with loved ones. So in anticipation of my trip, I have been reminiscing fondly about festivities back home. Karachi’s soothingly cool southern winter would bring with it endless weddings and party invites, and Pakistanis take huge joy in celebrating by sharing good food with others. Be it a birth, a marriage or a religious festival, food will always be centre-stage and the event will be celebrated with a mighty feast called a daawat. Slow-cooked meats, lavish breads, aromatic rice dishes and the richest of desserts, are all served family style, and with generosity. At nearly every festivity there will be a familiar aroma in the air – smoky barbecued kebabs , intoxicating steam rising from deygs (large steel cooking pots) filled with spiced biryani or kunna gosht (goat shank stew).
Our weddings begin with late-night henna celebrations (mehndi): and as dinner is served near midnight, the feasting then carries on throughout the night. My memories of this time of year are so different from those of many growing up in Britain. My greatest pleasure would be staying up late, chatting to friends and drinking Kashimiri pink chai topped with pistachio, salt and almonds, at weddings or late-night dinner parties, mopping up "halva puri" breakfasts at 4am.
.Our festival food in Pakistan is lavish, opulent and decadent. I find myself longing for my nani’s (maternal grandmother) saffron-infused mutton biryani, or my mother’s haleem or white chicken qorma with kewra (screwpine essence), alongside a large leg of mutton that would be marinating for days before being roasted to perfection for a party. These are the meals that remind me of this time of year, and I am yearning to taste them when I am home later this month.
However, there is one festival and celebratory tradition in Pakistan that is close to my heart, called niyaz, which is the tradition of feeding the poor on certain festival days. I would spend mornings with my nani, preparing large cauldrons of meat-based dishes such as kitchra (also known as haleem, a celebratory meat-based porridge) or nihari (slow-cooked shank stew). These would be enjoyed at home but mostly they were made to share with the poor and disadvantaged. We would then take the food to be distributed at the Sufi saint shrine near my house, where people traditionally gathered. Qawwali music (devotional Sufi music) would fill the air, and I will never forget the peace and satisfaction this would bring to my heart to give out those bags of food – there is nothing more satisfying for the soul than feeding someone who needs food more than you.
So as this year comes to a close, I am excited about breathing in that familiar sea breeze of the Arabian Sea that graces my home city, and I am reminded that this time of year is about gratitude, generosity and abundant hospitality. These sentiments aren't are sown deep within a Pakistani’s heart, and shared internationally by us all. There is no better way to end this year than sit together with family and friends, over bountiful platters of home cooking, laughter and togetherness.
My Nani’s beef kitchra (lentil, barley and oat stew)
Serves 10-12
This recipe is wonderful and keeps for days in the freezer. It can be taken out and enlivened with different toppings to feed large gatherings of unexpected guests.
30g/1oz/scant ¼ cup each moong daal, urid daal and chana daal
250g/9oz/scant 1¼ cups pearl barley or wheatgerm
1kg/21?4lb braising or chuck steak, cut into chunks
2 tsp each of crushed ginger and garlic 1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
2 black cardamom pods
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp crushed dried red chilli 2 litres/3½ pints/8 cups water 20g/¾oz/¼ cup rolled oats
5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 red onion, cut into slices
For the condiments
2 red onions, thinly cut, fried in oil until brown, then drained
1 bunch of fresh coriander (cilantro) with stems, chopped
½ bunch of mint, leaves only and finely chopped
2.5cm/1-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into julienne
1 tbsp garam masala
3 green chillies, finely chopped
2 lemons, cut into wedges
Soak all the lentils and barley in water overnight. The next day, drain and place in a heavy-based saucepan with a lid with the beef chunks, ginger, garlic and all the spices. Pour in the water, bring to the boil and remove any scum from the surface with a slotted spoon. Reduce heat, partially cover and cook for up to two hours, checking the water frequently and stirring to make sure it’s not sticking to the base of the pan. It should begin to resemble a thick porridge with chunks of meat. The lentils should be soft and the meat able to be mashed with the back of a spoon. Add the oats and cook for another 10 minutes. When cooked, turn the heat off and cover with the lid.
Heat the oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add the onions and cook for 8-10 minutes until brown. Pour over the kitchra and cover. To serve, pour out a portion per person into a bowl and arrange all the condiments in small bowls, adding a little of each to every serving.
From Summers Under The Tamarind Tree (Frances Lincoln, £20)
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