It's been called the ''Beavis and Butthead approach to winetasting'', a criticism warmly accepted as a compliment. Wine X magazine in the United States is introducing young drinkers to the joys of wine. Irreverent, stylish and determinedly youthful, its mission is to introduce Generation Xers to wine. These are not 60s' mods and rockers or 70s' punk bands, but the disillusioned, post-yuppy, apathetic slackers as described in Douglas Coupland's 1992 novel, Generation X: Tales from an Accelerated Culture.
The magazine doesn't promote a pretentious Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous attitude. You might say that instead it adopts a Lifestyles of the Young, Hip and Beautiful attitude. It's all very American and West Coast.
Wine X points out there are ''80million Gen Xers with #90million to spend . . . forming their consumption habits - and brand loyalties - for life''
But it's their approach to tasting notes that has really upset the traditionalists. Wines are given a mark out of three Xs and then described in short, colourful metaphors. The editor insists they want to describe how wine ''makes them feel''.
So, for instance, a ''Chardonnay is like Brad Pitt in boxer shorts''. '''Brad Pitt''. Sexy guy. Attractive. Well-built. Rich. Popular. Seems balanced. ''In boxer shorts''. Bold. Forward. Revealing, but not too fleshy. Leaves a lasting impression. So now, let's string all these together: ''A sexy wine, rich, bold, attractive, well-balanced and -built, revealing forward fruit flavours with just enough flesh to carry it through the long, lingering finish.''
This week we're trying out this approach on six summer wines from the UK high street and - because I'm such a Generation
X kid - the internet.
W for recommended weekend drinking, WW for something worth a special trip, and
WWW for a ''must try'' wine.
Visit Wine X on the web at www.winexwired.com
Caliterra Chardonnay 2000, #4.99 - Threshers, Wine Rack, Bottoms Up, everywine.co.uk
W: Noel from Popstars in his underpants - still attractive but not in Brad Pitt's league. Commercial maybe, but still brilliant fun.
Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc 2000 - #4.99 - Virginwines.com, everywine.co.uk, madaboutwine.com
W: Like Ursula Andress emerging from the surf, this is a combination of melons, floral elegance and refreshing citrus zest.
Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2000 - #6.99 - madaboutwine.com, virginwine.com
WW: This time it's Myleene of Popstars making an appearance. The subtle, classy one, a little bit different, peachy, juicy and attractive.
Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2000 - #5.99 - Threshers, Wine Rack, Bottoms Up, Victoria Wine WW: Denise Van Outen during her Big Breakfast days, lively, more than a match to spicy flavours and with a refreshing, lime-flavoured, zippy fruit.
35 South Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 - #4.79 - Asda, Safeway, Sainsbury's
WWW: Emma Bunton in soft, suede chaps giving you the wink - sweet spice, fleshy, with gently yielding tannins and all alluringly fruity.
San Fereolo Dolcetto 1998 - #8.99 - Oddbins
WW: Basset Hound-ear flavours, soft, yielding and velvety, with the deep, long, throaty length of his bark.
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