Review: Tron Bar and Kitchen

0141 552 8587

Lunch/Dinner £20-30

Verdict: Four stars

Tucked in beside the renowned Tron Theatre, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Tron Bar and Kitchen was just a pit stop for hungry showgoers, or a convenient post-show drinking spot.

The restaurant was recently refurbished with dove grey painted walls, vintage lights and blue plastic seats bought from the recently closed Chinese eatery Cafe Mao– with small potted cacti dotted on every wooden table. Simple and airy, the interior gives off an unassuming, laid-back feel befitting of a modern diner – but the setting lets each exquisite dish take centre stage.

The new menu itself offers fine dining with a creative twist at affordable prices – and there’s something for vegetarians and carnivores alike. Made with a spicy, crumbly blend of lentils, pulses, onions and carrots, the vegetarian haggis bonbons could outshine the MacSween meat versions in flavour – with each ball nestled in a sweet, tangy daub of red onion, orange and chilli marmalade.

The traditional Skirlie Ballantine pays a playful tribute to Scotland’s national larder. The tender chicken fillets are wrapped in bacon and stuffed with onion and oatmeal, accompanied by a thick rocket and whisky sauce – gently bringing out the texture of the meat without overpowering the palate.

Though delicious, the arancini would be better suited as a small starter dish rather than a main. The creamy pumpkin and goats cheese risotto is coated in breadcrumbs, and served with fresh salsa and crispy potato cubes. The strong flavour and creamy richness can become quite cloying and samey after a few bites, so vegetarians might want to opt for the porcini and tarragon risotto instead for something more adventurous.

When it is first put in front of you, the glazed pork looks like edible art. The fillets sit on a bed of green wasabi creamed potato, scattered with thin, honey glazed carrots and drenched in a thin demi glaze jus. The fragrant mash packs a punch – with a slight burning sensation in the nostrils – but marries well with the soothing sweet honey and the meat, which was cooked to perfection.

If you’ve got a sweet tooth, the desserts are worth saving room for. The hot, Belgian chocolate brownie props up a melting ball of salted caramel ice cream, covered in flowing chocolate sauce and dusted with icing sugar – a decadent choice.

For something a bit lighter, the vanilla and lime cheesecake boasts a creamy mousse with a fresh hint of citrus on a crunchy biscuit base.

As its theatre shows pack off to the Edinburgh Fringe, the manager says that the restaurant is always at its quietest in August. For a chilled out gourmet dining experience that doesn’t hurt your pocket, the Tron Bar and Kitchen should be next on your list.