STYLE AND SUBSTANCE
The Grade I-listed building attracts visitors from around the world. It’s a spectacle to behold when first arriving. Designed by John Carr in the 18th century, the U-shaped, 81-bedroom hotel was set to reopen in 2020 but was forced to close again during the pandemic. After receiving £24.35 million lottery funding and undergoing a £70 million, 20-year renovation project, the Buxton Crescent and Georgian Spa was finally brought back to its former glory complete with chandeliers on high painted ceilings, stained glass windows and subtle wood furnishings.
SLEEPING MATTERS
Each room provides a large, comfortable space to work or relax. There’s a cosy four-poster bed, a crystal chandelier and a large bathroom with heated floors. A room with a view adds to the overall experience. I watched as locals filled bottles of natural mineral water from the St Anne’s Well, described as one of the seven wonders of the Peak District.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
The hotel dining room has a unique ambience. As a starter I chose roast breast of wood pigeon, which came with apple, cheese and chestnuts; it offered a delicious array of flavours. I decided on a lighter main, the whole lemon sole and new potatoes. The delicate, sweet flavours were the perfect contrast. The hotel bar has a classic feel with friendly, relaxed staff and is the perfect spot to finish the evening with a nightcap.
DRINK IN THE SIGHTS
The Old Hall Hotel, Buxton is one of the area’s oldest buildings. A blue plaque marks the spot where Mary Queen of Scots was allowed to come and bathe in the natural waters. Room number 26 has an inscription written by Mary: “Buxton, whose warm waters have made thy name famous, perchance I shall visit thee no more – Farewell.” A replica is visible at the entrance close to a large portrait of the Scottish queen. A highlight included a walk to Mam Tor (Mother Hill) which offers one of England’s most dramatic views. Even amid rain and storm clouds, this was a stunning walk. As Billy Connolly pointed out: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing.”
NICE TOUCH
The water in the spa is heated and chemically untreated. A highlight was the indoor pool, which leads to a rooftop outdoor pool. I was offered a mineral treatment in a tin bath which is known to lower blood pressure. After the experience, you are left feeling relaxed, having enjoyed what’s known as the Buxton cure. The water is long believed to have healing properties and health benefits. The thermal pool was an ideal place for another plunge in a tranquil environment.
ABOUT THE AREA
Nearby Macclesfield attracts visitors from around the globe to the grave of the late Joy Division frontman Ian Curtis. The house where he lived is also a place of pilgrimage for fans. Echo & the Bunnymen film Shine So Hard was filmed around the hotel and in Buxton Gardens; the accompanying mini-album was recorded at the Buxton Pavilion. The 23 acres of landscaped gardens are a short walk from the hotel.
Rates start from £155 per night based on two people sharing an Attic Room on a B&B basis.
www.ensanahotels.com/buxton/en
www.myguidedwalks.co.uk
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