IT is jeely pans at dawn as 32 rival clans join battle in the rush to be crowned the best marmalade maker in the land.

Over the last few weeks country house kitchens across Scotland have seen temperatures reach boiling point as new-season Seville oranges are shredded, soaked and simmered with sugar to recreate the most ancient British sweetmeat to clans' own fiercely-guarded recipes - put to the test for the very first time.

The Buchanan, Gordon, Graham, Hamilton, Macdonald, McNeill and McTavish were among those game enough to enter the new Stirring of the Clans category at this year's World's Original Marmalade Awards.

They certainly caused a stir at Dalemain Mansion in Cumbria, where judges spent days opening, smelling and tasting them to find the winning entry.

The best Clan marmalade, judged on appearance, aroma, consistency, quality and taste, will be announced at the Marmalade Festival at Dalemain on Saturday.

The Marmalade Awards were founded 10 years ago by Jane Hasell-McCosh of Dalemain, who this year introduced the new Clan category to encourage more Scots to get involved.

A record 2,000 jars have been submitted to all categories in this year's competition, including 80 entries for the new McNab category for a marmalade to go with fish, fur and fowl, a hotel and B&B category, and a commercial category.

The debate about whether marmalade is English or Scottish has been simmering for centuries.

An early version of quince paste (marmelos) was imported from Portugal to various British ports in the early 15th century and Henry VIII was an early recipient. There is also the story that it was given to Mary Queen of Scots when she fell ill on her journey from France to Scotland (Marie la Malade became marmalade).

Home-made orange marmalade recipes of individual country house estates, both English and Scottish, still exist from the 17th century.

What is accepted is that Janet Keiller of Dundee was the first to make a spreadable marmalade with shredded oranges, and to produce it on a commercial scale from 1797.

The Marmalade Awards have attracted entries predominantly from England in past years, but Ms Hasell-McCosh was keen to redress the balance.

Ms Hasell-McCosh said: "The new Stirring of the Clans category has been a tremendous addition to the competition in its 10th year of existence. I'm surprised that so many different Scottish clans have entered, and delighted that five clan chiefs have submitted their own marmalades.

"The judges have been impressed by the creative use of ingredients, though it's clear that the traditional Seville orange marmalade is still the most popular to make among the clans.

"We were also impressed by the decorative ribbons, feathers, Tam o'Shanters and crocheted labels on the jars of various shapes and sizes.

"It's a clear indication that this ancient tradition is alive and cooking in Scotland. We hope more Scots of all walks of life will enter next year's competition.

"The big question now is, is Scotland better at making marmalade than England?"

�¢The World's Original Marmalade Festival and Awards take place at Dalemain, Cumbria, from February 28. www.marmaladeawards.com