It was designed to shield the aristocracy through the mists and damp of a Scottish winter.
The iconic Balmacaan tweed coat was famously worn by Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor and its roots hark back to a Highland estate.
Now, in celebration of the 225th anniversary of luxury brand Johnstons of Elgin, a special limited-edition version has been created with only 50 available to buy.
The £1295 coat’s history can be traced back to a country estate in the North of Scotland and an American industrialist.
The Balmacaan Estate near Drumnadrochit, Inverness-shire, was at its peak when it was leased to Bradley Martin, one of a new breed of wealthy American industrialists drawn to the Highlands at the end of the nineteenth century.
Martin’s legendary parties included guests such as the Grand Duke Michael of Russia.
In 1905 his London tailor designed him a shooting coat which was inspired from hunting coats worn by the British aristocracy and the sleeveless overcoats worn by the military decades earlier.
Following the coat’s huge popularity within Martin’s social circle, the design became synonymous with the estate.
It was named after Balmacaan and copyrighted to retain its exclusivity.
Johnstons of Elgin hold a Royal Warrant of Appointment to His Majesty King Charles III, when he was Prince of Wales, for the supply of estate Tweeds.
The coat was also worn by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, and Duke of Windsor, who was famed for his sartorial elegance.
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Tweed forms a significant part of the brand’s heritage, and the contemporary coat, woven in its Elgin mill, is made from 100% wool, which has been processed, dyed and spun in the UK.
To reimagine the iconic Balmacaan, Johnstons searched its archives for an authentic tweed with a contemporary aesthetic, selecting a 1919 pattern and weaving pure British Wool to create the coat.
The limited edition version includes a unique Digital ID tag, created by Eon, that allow customers to find out about the Scottish brand’s heritage.
In celebration of the anniversary, a Stewart Check Cape has also been created for women, crafted with Johnstons Donegal Yarn and priced £1,495.
A female version of the coat is coming in 2023 while the firm says many women already own it in a smaller size.
Jenny Urquhart, Chairman, Johnstons of Elgin, said: “We have produced tweed, a fabric unique to Scotland, since the 1840s.
“Initially made for those living and working on nearby estates, it has become a versatile wardrobe staple with broad appeal.
“For our milestone 225th birthday we were keen to use this fabric, while always remaining inspired by our surrounding landscape for colour.
“The Balmacaan Coat marries our heritage of Scottish origins and expertise in craftmanship with modernity.
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“Inspired by our brands’ DNA from the last two centuries, this contemporary coat showcases our dedication to continual evolution and positions Johnstons of Elgin at the forefront of innovation.”
Established in 1797, Johnstons of Elgin is one of the last few vertical mills in the UK still carrying out all the processes from raw Cashmere and fine woollen fibres right through to the finished product.
The firm’s mills in Elgin and Hawick employ just over 1,100 people, including highly skilled textile craftsmen and women.
In June, Johnstons disclosed a pre-tax profit of £3.9m on sales that were up 28% on the previous year at £66.4m.
The Martin family was popular in the Highlands, contributing generously to many community projects, notably the building of the Public Hall in 1906, which is still in regular use.
Between 1920 and 1946 the family’s fortunes declined, and parts of the estate were sold off, much of it to the local community.
The large house that formed part of the estate gradually fell into disrepair and was eventually demolished in 1972.
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