Glasgow climber wins the 'Oscars' of mountaineering

The 27-year-old from Glasgow won the biggest award in climbing, given to those who pursue uncharted territories with a deep-rooted respect for the mountains, despite a near-death experience in 2018. 

Read more: Scotland's mountains: Climber in first ascent of hardest winter climb

While climbing at an altitude of 19,300ft on the Ultar Sar mountain in Pakistan, he was buried in an avalanche where his friend and fellow climber Christian Huber died. 

Mr Miller chewed through the tent’s fabric before clawing his way through six feet of snow to the surface. 

Tim and his girlfriend Beth, who is a guide on ships to Antarctica (Image: Contributed)

While he helped save the life of another climbing partner, Bruce Normand, Mr Miller tragically found Mr Huber already dead. 

The survivors spent two days in their broken tent, waiting for weather to ease before being airlifted to safety by a Pakistani military helicopter. Mr Miller was described as a “hero” by Mr Normand. 

He said: “It was a turning point, a moment where the mountains taught me lessons beyond climbing. I didn’t take it in immediately because I was so focused on finding what I needed to survive – warmth, food, liquid, and shelter. 

“When I came down, it all hit me and I saw how much the whole thing had terrified my mum, dad, and girlfriend. But it made me realise how much I need to climb. 

“It made me appreciate being alive, and climbing makes me feel alive. We’re all humans, and we all experience fear, but I think some people experience it differently.

Read more: Climbing mountains is overrated, get yourself to the woods instead

“I learned a lot from that experience — we made silly mistakes. Now I prepare meticulously, I’m more experienced, I have my qualifications, and I’m way more knowledgeable, so I take more control. 

“It can be scary at times but I feel far more stressed when I’m off the mountain and my phone starts pinging. You’re in flow when you’re in the mountains, and I find it quite hard to deal with getting off it and living a ‘normal’ life.”

Miller first met legendary climber Paul Ramsden, who he partnered with on his award-winning ascent, while hitchhiking home to Glasgow following a climb at the UK’s highest peak Ben Nevis. 

The pair’s successful summit of the previously unclimbed Jugal Spire in Nepal came after years of meticulous planning. 

Their route to the top was perilous, as they ascended along a singular path of ice and snow across the rock face, unsure if the route would continue unbroken to the summit.

Tim guiding on the Skye Cuillin (Image: Contributed)

Following the ‘alpine style’, the duo chose not to use supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes, or Sherpa support – a feat celebrated in the mountaineering world for its ethical approach and "pure connection" to the mountains.

The 27-year-old, who suffered frostbite during the climb to the 21,532-foot summit, said: “I’m incredibly proud to receive a Piolet d’Or, but I never got into climbing for awards: the award, for me, is being able to explore the unexplored, and the adventure itself. 

“On an expedition you don’t have to think about anything else for six weeks; you read, you chat, and you climb. It’s purely a psychological sport. 

“You have to switch yourself off to be alert. All your actions have consequences so there’s no choice but to focus entirely. It’s like nothing else on Earth. 

“There are only a handful of unclaimed peaks out there, and there’s so much hard work scouring books and Google Earth before you get there, but it’s still unknown until you’re on the mountain.”

Read more: Who are these people who feel they need to climb mountains?

Mr Miller grew up in Strathblane, and fell in love with the outdoors while hillwalking with his parents. But it was at the Glasgow Climbing Centre in Ibrox, where he would later have his first job, that he developed his passion for climbing. From there, he began to explore local crags around Glasgow, including the famous Dumbarton Rock and Auchinstarry Quarry.

He said: “Growing up, the Highlands were my playground. I fell in love with climbing here – it was without a doubt the best training ground. It was such an ideal path from climbing indoors to winter climbing in Scotland; it prepared me so well and fuelled my desire for real adventure, and connecting with wild places. 

“I built up a real bank of experience. I still love doing new routes in Scotland because there are so many amazing places to go climbing. Being in Inverness, you’re right in the middle of it all: Torridon, Applecross, Skye, Ben Nevis, Glen Coe…

“But when I conquered my first unclimbed peak, Nutcracker’s Peak in Kyrgyzstan, I realised I wanted to use climbing to travel and explore the world.”

Now living in Inverness with his girlfriend Beth, who is a guide on geology and wildlife on ships to Antarctica, Mr Miller has his own guiding and instructing business, Miller Mountain Guides.

He said: “I feel a responsibility to share what I’ve learned. It’s not just about the climbs but about fostering a love for the outdoors, teaching respect for the mountains, and ensuring safety in every ascent.

“I’ve been guiding so much the last few years, and I do love it, but I worry about plateauing so I’m going to push myself and make sure I don’t lose my edge with trips to Antarctica, Greenland, and the Himalayas next year. 

“I plan to do more vertical climbing and have a bucket list that includes well-known faces, like El Capitan in Yosemite, but I also want to go to places people wouldn’t think about going; you’re more likely to find me in Kyrgyzstan than on Everest.”