History in the making

The ferry leaves from Scotland - unfortunately for those on this side of the Atlantic, it is Scotland Wharf, a small outpost in Virginia's Surry County on the southern shore of the river. More than 900,000 vehicles make the 15-minute crossing every year, passing over the site of the wharf originally constructed for a plantation called Scotland Neck. Local historians can trace that name back to the 1700s but beyond that, the origins of the Scottish connection remain a mystery.

Beyond Jamestown, Virginia's "historic triangle" beckons history buffs with more to explore than can be covered in a fortnight. It includes Colonial Williamsburg, a hotbed of revolutionary debate in the eighteenth century that is now one of the world's largest living history museums. The third corner of the triangle stands at Yorktown, where troops led by George Washington defeated those of Charles Cornwallis to win the American Revolution in 1781.

We drive up Interstate 64 from Yorktown to Colonial Williamsburg, the historic district of the city of Williamsburg and one of the most-visited tourist destinations within the US. Although foreign travellers make up just about 4% of all visitors to the area, hundreds of thousands of Americans also flock to the site every year.

Nearly 1000 staff and volunteers roam the 301-acre site, bringing a personal touch to the stories of people living in the state's capital when the dream of American independence was taking shape. With the dress and demeanour of residents from that era, these "historical interpreters" earn their billing, as every one we speak to chats comfortably about family life, work and religion in that period.

However, with a couple of under-fives in tow, such finesse is lost on part of our audience. While a "personal account" from a slave of that time stops the adults in their footsteps, our two boys are throwing stones into a drainage grating, followed by a vigorous race down the communal green space leading to the Governor's Palace, home of the UK's Royal Governors as well as the first two elected Governors of Virginia, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson.

It is here that we finally find something that every generation can enjoy: the walled garden of the Governor's Palace. The terraced terrain is dominated by an elaborate pleasure garden, where governors and their acolytes would have strolled and chatted amid the Boxwoods, imported bulbs and Asian-grown daylilies. We are visiting early in the season, but even now it is clear why the exotic plants thrive, with temperatures in the mid-eighties.

Azaleas and lilac are on full show, while dogwood, mimosa and crab apple trees loom above the shrubs. Even this provides inadequate shelter from the beating sun, however, and we are forced to take respite at a nearby canal, with the improved coverage of budding elm trees and the inviting natter of resident ducks.

We retrace our steps back to Duke of Gloucester Street, picking our way around a crowd of schoolchildren as we head towards Shields Tavern for a quick lunch.

Shields is one of the more affordable of four historic dining taverns in Colonial Williamsburg. All feature food from the period served by yet more costumed interpreters, while period musicians frequently play music from the era. This perhaps goes some way towards explaining the rather steep prices, but the food is tasty and ample, and the boys enjoy their honey biscuits with Virginia ham.

Outside the historic district - and in some cases just a few minutes' stroll away - there is an array of dining establishments catering to every taste. The Trellis Restaurant is often mentioned as an innovator in contemporary American dining, but local gastronomes reckon that if you want to spend that sort of money, Opus 9 on Main Street is the best alternative. It's not a place for children, however, and we eventually opt for the nearby Fat Canary on Duke of Gloucester Street, which has expanded from its Jamaican roots and fully lives up to its reputation for innovative food and ambience.

There are also plenty of nearby entertainment alternatives for youngsters, the most notable being Busch Gardens, the European-themed amusement park three miles east of the historic district. Heatherdowns, the Scottish section of the park, features the double-looped Loch Ness Monster, one of six major roller coasters at Busch Gardens.

With so many intriguing destinations within easy reach, it is probably relevant to mention one that should be near the bottom of the list. We inadvertently pass by Presidents Park next to Interstate 64 and catch a glimpse of half-a-dozen of the 43 presidential busts on display there. Despite being the work of internationally-recognised artist David Adickes, we feel we have seen enough of these 18-foot monoliths in our drive-by, and keep travelling.

That aside, the vast majority on offer within the historic triangle is well worth the investment of both time and money. Just be sure to do some research and planning beforehand - particularly if you are travelling with younger children - to ensure you get the most out of your trip.

Need to know Flights this month for two adults with British Airways average about £895 per person from Glasgow to Dulles International Airport, located outside Washington DC, and about 150 miles north of Williamsburg. A standard non-refundable room at the Hilton Garden Inn, Williamsburg, averages $136 (£69) per night for two guests, not including taxes, service fees and charges for extra guests. For more information on local historic sights, Busch Gardens, and Water Country USA, as well as golfing, dining and shopping in the local area, visit www.williamsburg.com Colonial Williamsburg is also within striking distance of Virginia Beach, home to the largest pleasure beach in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records. Find out more about this resort area at www.vabeach.com.