There are two varieties of celery: the stalk, which is grown commercially to provide the maximum length above the ground, and the round celeriac, which grows in the soil to produce a large bulb with firm white flesh.
Choosing good celery is easy – plump for large, bright-green and crisp sticks. As for celeriac, make your selection based on the firmness and weight of those on offer. Try to avoid any extra-large specimens, as they sometimes have a hollow section inside.
A whole fresh celeriac can be stored in the fridge for more than a week, but once you cut into it the white flesh will quickly start to oxidise and turn brown. If you need to store a piece you've already cut, rub it with a little fresh lemon juice to prevent discolouration.
Celeriac is a fine autumn and winter vegetable that's fantastic roasted or cooked then pureed. Surrounded by the multiple flavours in this week's salad – sweet raisins, punchy coriander, spices, chicken stock and white wine – it is at its delicious best. n
Celeriac with golden raisins and coriander
Serves 4
30g golden raisins
1 whole celeriac (about 500g)
Juice of 1 lemon
125ml good-quality olive oil
16 fresh silverskin baby onions
1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf and flat-leaf parsley)
1tsp coriander seeds
Half-tsp cumin powder
250ml good-quality chicken stock
125ml dry white wine
2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
6tbsp sherry vinegar
1tsp caster sugar
1tbsp finely chopped coriander plus a handful of leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Soften the raisins by soaking them in warm water for 1 hour.
Using a large serrated knife, peel the celeriac then cut it into 1cm dice. Squeeze the lemon over the celeriac and mix well to prevent it from turning brown.
Drain the raisins and heat the olive oil in a large, heavy saute pan. When the oil is hot, add the onions, celeriac, bouquet garni, coriander seeds and raisins. Stir the contents of the pan and cook gently for 3-4 minutes.
Next, sprinkle the cumin powder into the pan and mix well. Add the chicken stock and white wine, bring to the boil then turn down the heat to a simmer and leave the celeriac to cook for 15 minutes.
Now add the tomatoes, vinegar and caster sugar, then check the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary.
Place in a serving dish, sprinkle the coriander over the top and finish with a few turns of freshly ground black pepper and a sprinkling of picked whole coriander leaves.
This is a fresh, aromatic and medium-bodied white wine with good acidity, flavours of apricot and peach and a lingering finish.
Le Fromenteau, Pinot Gris, 2010, Josmeyer, Alsace, (L'Art Du Vin, £23.25)
The Honours, 58a North Castle Street, Edinburgh. Visit www.thehonours.co.uk or call 0131 220 2513.
Celeriac with golden raisins and coriander
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