FOR the past two weeks, I have been rushed off my feet, up and down to London, first for a Radio 4 appearance, and then, most recently a collaboration event with chef Vivek Singh, at one of his restaurants, which was an experience to remember.
As I felt my way through an unfamiliar kitchen, which handles more than 200 sittings at dinner alone, I was indeed daunted about working in the restaurant for two days. But in my time there, I realised that cooking with the freshest and best ingredients, and in this case the freshest spices, can be reproduced even in a big set-up. It’s something I do without realising, a simple matter that you never think can be reproduced in such a big set-up, to create in the most authentic flavours, which are also the most satisfying.
At the beginning of my time there, I was taken to their large spice cupboards – where I was told all the spices were freshly brought over from India. As I opened the floor-to-ceiling height cupboard, I was hit by a cocktail of aromas and instantly transported to a spice bazaar in Delhi or Mumbai, where the freshness of spices captivated every sense. This got me thinking, that if in preparing every dish, you begin with such pure ingredients, and build the flavours, you are sure to produce food fit for a king.
This ethos of cooking can translate into the simplest of dishes. In fact most cookery demands the best, freshest ingredients money can buy.
Cooking with a myriad of spices is not for everyone. Many of us lack that ability to balance flavours. And in today’s world, where we are so inundated with choices in supermarkets, it is natural that people feel that to make a really good dish, we must add as many different ingredients as possible to make the final result taste great. But it is not the quantity that matters; it is merely the quality. And quality does not always have to cost the earth. For example, making the must basic of dishes such as chicken nuggets from fresh chicken, using leftover bread to make crumbs and eggs and flour in you kitchen, results in a much more wholesome experience for the tastebuds.
Even as someone who normally cooks in this way, I too have a tendency of sometimes over-complicating dishes, using spices that have been lying at the back of my cupboard for over a year. But this past few days has make me remember how important it is to update that spice drawer regularly, clean out that fridge, use up ingredients as soon as possible, and keep all the aromatic essentials of cooking simply, fresh.
So my advice to myself following all this running about has been to take a step back from always trying too hard with too many elements. Instead, I’m going to start with basics – good clean flavours – and keep things fresh and simple. Food shouldn’t be merely about sustenance but about the celebration of produce. When life is hectic, we sometimes forget that.
Ghee-crisped white aubergines with wild sumac
The joy of cooking is to create true flavour to savour and share. In a visual world, it is easy to let the presentation of food, rather than the flavour, take precedence. But essentially, real flavour comes from using essentially pure, fresh produce and simple cooking techniques.
Sumac is a Middle Eastern berry that is crushed and made into a coarse powder. It is used in many Arab, Middle Eastern and South Asian recipes. The berries have a tart, lemon-like tart flavour and enhance everything from cheese, salads, meats and vegetables.
I love the simplicity of this side dish. Use white aubergines, which have a much fresher flavour. Wild sumac is available in most Middle Eastern shops and large supermarkets.
Ingredients
1 large white aubergine, thinly sliced, vertically
3 tbsp ghee
Salt to taste
1 tbsp wild sumac
Heat a flying pan and add a little ghee, place slices of aubergine in batches and fry on either side until light brown and crsip. Place on kitchen paper until all are cooked. You will need to keep adding ghee as you go along. Sprinkle with salt and wild sumac.
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