Yes, I know, I haven't been too complimentary about any Sherry that isn't a sticky PX in the past but a recent tasting in London made me rethink that position so here we are talking about Fino this week. Yes, I also remember referring to Fino as battery acid, cats pee with a hint of lemon and as being only slightly better than a work colleague with chronic halitosis but even a lifelong skeptic like me can change their mind when faced with new beauty. Alternatively, it could be that my taste buds are getting as old and cranky as my brain but all of a sudden, I love bone dry lemon flavours with hints of honey and acid. It sounds like an alternative to waterboarding but when the sun is out, the sherry is as cold as a penguins bottom and there's a platter of seafood and salad, you really would struggle to find a better moment in time.
For those of you who love a cocktail, the good news is that there are several good recipes using fino including one that also uses my favourite food group, gin. The cocktail in question is the Midsummer Cup and what could sound more quintessentially British than that? One essential tip however is always to serve Fino as chilled as possible unless you enjoy masochism.
Anyway, the motto of the column is to take a fresh look at fino sherry this summer because if an old crank like me can change his opinion, so can you!
Fino Jarana, Emilio Lustau
One of those really interesting finos with all the refreshing dryness you expect along with toasted almonds, hints of citrus and a salty touch to the finish. Serve with Tapas or shellfish, especially grilled langoustines.
Corney & Barrow £16.00
Fernando de Castilla Antique Fino
A lovely colour with a cracking aromatic nose of roast nuts and dried fruit. The palate is creamy with a salty tang to the finish. Its an excellent aperitif but partner it with a crab salad and it’s quite stunning.
Wood Vintners, 50cl, £21.50
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