We talked about an ugly duckling of a red grape last week so I thought we could take a look at a largely undiscovered princess.
Albarino is fast becoming Spain’s answer to the Kiwi Sauvignons but while it’s been in production for many generations, it’s little known in the commercial world. It’s like a lovely duchess of some little known principality who you’ve never heard of but can’t stop thinking about once you’ve had a dance.
It’s mainly grown in the Rias Baixas area of north west Spain and slightly south in Portugal where it’s used in the tourist’s favourite Portuguese white, vinho verde. More recently, it’s attracted the attention of several Californian and Australian wineries but it’s Spain which continues to lead the way when it comes to single varietal wines. It’s never going to be a cheap wine as a single varietal, however, because it’s difficult to ripen and the thick skins can cause too much bitterness in the hands of a plonker.
When they get it right, however, it can make some of the most elegant, expressive white wines in the world with waxy, peachy flavours and delicious refreshing acidity which makes it fabulous in hot weather or with seafood, particularly shellfish but it’s equally at home with roasted vegetables. Albarino is at its best when produced as a dry wine as it’s a grape that gives up its sugar quite readily for conversion to alcohol. It tends to be a quite heady style as well but rest assured, it has the body and depth to handle it very nicely, particularly when served as cool as a penguin’s bum.
Anyway, I’m breaking my own rules as usual and tasting mine with a bit of smoked cheddar and it’s quite delicious.
Veigadares Albarino, Adegas Galegas, Spain
Rich and powerful with gorgeous peach and tropical fruit flavours on the palate. Careful use of oak adds a lovely buttery finish. A must for the summer.
Corney & Barrow £17.50
Exquisite Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain
Dry, aromatic and zesty with lovely peach aromas, herbs and citrus fruits. There’s a refreshing minerality on the palate and a crisp finish. Perfect with shellfish.
Aldi £6.49
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