I THOUGHT we could take a look at red wines to savour with the hot weather and I'm sure you will appreciate my diligent efforts over the last few days. I took a look at the French classics first but even the finest Bordeaux was wasted in the scorching temperatures because too much heat can make even the best cabernets and merlots taste fat and squidgy. I had a go at a Chateauneuf and a smattering of Burgundies but they just tasted too thin – and not in a refreshing way – more volatile than normal perhaps.
I had in mind finding a red wine that could hold its body and fruit in the heat but which would also leave my palate feeling refreshed and zingy. After several exhausting glasses, I stumbled onto an old friend and his relatively new pal from Argentina. Yes, folks, I am of course talking about malbec and bonarda, the two butch cowboys from South America.
Malbec has long been a favourite of mine with its rich, uncompromising palate and often furry tannins but bonardo is a grape I've tended to ignore until now and I don't mind admitting to an error of judgement. I appreciate that the ones I tried were all above a tenner but, crikey, what intoxicating aromas they all displayed. Amid all the crushed raspberry flavours, there were two common denominators among them all: ripe tannins and an almost Italian style of acidity that lifted the whole wine and left fond memories on my palate. So there you have it, ladies and gents, when the sun is melting the tarmac and you yearn for a red wine, go for an Argentine bonarda or failing that a decent Mendoza malbec.
Achaval Ferrer Malbec, Argentina
Fresh summer fruits on the nose with a full ripe berry palate and hints of pepper and cocoa on the finish. A big, uncompromising and yet refreshing wine
Corney & Barrow £20.95
Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda, Argentina
Violets and black cherries on the nose with a rich intense palate of black cherries, vanilla and chocolate.
Waitrose £9.99
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