The walk: Ben Nevis

Distance: 8 miles/13km

Time: 7-9 hours

Mountain of contrasts

IT may involve a lung-bursting climb of over a thousand metres, a relentlessly steep ascent with very little respite, but the route from the Polldubh car park in Glen Nevis to the summit of our highest mountain has a lot going for it. Such an ascent of Ben Nevis fits nicely with an excursion over the slim crescent of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete to Carn Mor Dearg itself, and the day is rounded off with a wander through upper Glen Nevis, once described as the “finest half-mile in Scotland.”

I know there are innumerably more adventurous routes that trace their way by gully and buttress, ridge and groove up the massive north-east face of the Ben. The classic Tower Ridge for example, or the wonderful line of the North-East Buttress, but these are essentially climbers’ routes.

Ben Nevis is a mountain of two opposing characters. One side is rounded and smooth-sloped, the other broken, steep and serious. On some days the summit of the Ben can be as pleasant as a warm day in the park, on others it becomes a vicious hell where human life is simply not compatible with its violent winds and freezing temperatures. It’s no small wonder mountaineer Hamish Brown once suggested it was a mountain of “loveless loveliness – a harlot who tempts the unwary.”

The route from Polldubh, up beside the great waterslide that rushes down over white slabs from Coire Eoghainn is steep, there’s no doubt about that, but the views of upper Glen Nevis are superb. Seen through the pale green tracery of the early summer birches, the woods and lower slopes looked freshly minted, alive and resonant with new life. Once you enter Coire Eoghainn the soft and lush world of the glen below vanishes. There is a harsh edge to the scenery up here as you climb into a stony desert, the stark, elemental beauty of Hamish Brown’s loveless loveliness. Stone and sky, sky and stone, and mountains rolling on into the horizon.

Above, the east ridge of Ben Nevis drops from the summit and within a few hundred metres abuts with the graceful curve of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, but that’s for later. For now the summit of Ben Nevis lies immediately above, following the lines of the abseil posts, placed to aid climbers during the icy winter months, to the mountain’s summit plateau.

I won’t dwell on the attractions of the summit; they’ve been well documented elsewhere and the highlight of the day lies below. Return to the start of the Carn More Dearg Arete and make your way across this thin fin of curved stone, one of the most beautiful and graceful features anywhere in the Scottish hills. It is a scramble, but it’s not difficult and if the crest of the Arete is too airy for you it’s easy enough to trace a less exposed route on the east side of the ridge.

Soon the views of the great buttresses and ridges and gullies of the north-east face begin to open up. This is the real heart and soul of the mountain, the Ben Nevis that attracts mountaineers from throughout the world. This is the character of the mountain laid bare before you, and there is no better vantage point, no better upper circle to watch this particular theatre, than from the summit of Carn Mor Dearg.

Once you’ve drunk your fill, from both the view and your flask, descend Carn Mor Dearg’s narrow east ridge to the head of Coire Giubhsachan. Fitter walkers might consider adding both Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag to their itinerary by climbing the very steep slopes east of Coire Giubsachan to the col between the two Aonachs.

I always enjoy the wander down beside the free-flowing waters of the Allt Coire Giubhsachan to the ruins at Steall. The valley drops to a meadow where the stream meanders in a relaxed and desultory manner before picking up speed and dashing over a steeper section. Once past Steall the Water of Nevis performs a similar act, flowing gently across the tranquil Steall Meadows before squeezing between rock walls into the deep cataract of the Nevis Gorge. And you can enjoy it all as you wander along the footpath that runs through the pines and birches high above the crashing waters of the river.

Route Planner

Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 41(Ben Nevis); Harvey Mountain Map, Ben Nevis

Distance: About 8 miles/13km

Approx Time: 7-9 hours

Start/Finish: Upper Polldubh car park, Glen Nevis (GR: NN168692)

Information: Fort William TIC, 01397 701801. The visitor centre in Glen Nevis (01397 705922) is currently closed for refurbishment.

Route: Climb the steep slopes beside the Waterslide into Coire Eoghainn and then head in a NE direction to where the E ridge of Ben Nevis joins the Carn Mor Dearg Arete. Continue climbing in a NW direction to the summit of Ben Nevis. Return to the Carn Mor Dearg Arete and cross it to reach Carn Mor Dearg. Descend the E ridge to the head of Coire Giubsachan and follow the Allt Coire Giubsachan S to the ruins at Steall. Follow the footpath past the Steall Cottage wire bridge and through the woods back to the car park.

Note: This route is not suitable for less experienced walkers, particularly those walking alone. Due care should always be taken on places such as thre Carn Mor Dearg arete.