Largs may be most synonymous with paddle steamers, doon the watter resort nostalgia and delicious full fat ice cream created by that Scots-Italian family, but beneath the resort lies another [[Largs]].
A multi-faceted Largs. Did you know Largs has a prehistoric site, gave the green light for D-Day, helped name Queensland’s capital, formed how we measure absolute temperature and hosted a battle in 1263 that shaped the Scotland we live in today?
Next time you descend on the train to Ayrshire’s most northerly town you don’t have to dash straight to the waterfront. Instead look out for the wee sign that directs you to the free volunteer-run [[Largs]] Museum. This wonderful wee Tardis weaves together the myriad strains of [[Largs]], with stories that its welcoming volunteers really help you to take a deep dive into.
Dating back to 1636, Sir Robert Montgomerie of Skelmorlie built it to house himself and his beloved wife, whom he mourned here for many years through an unusual window into her lead coffin.
The ornate stonework is unusual too, local sandstone rather than marble, quite brilliantly worked in all its gothic and renaissance glory. Sir Robert and Margaret still lie interred beneath the vault floor you stand on. The intricately painted wooden ceiling is a wonder too.
Buried in the same graveyard, in the Brisbane Aisle Vault, is Sir Thomas Brisbane, another [[Largs]] luminary. He was born at Brisbane House near [[Largs]], graduating from Edinburgh University to thrive during the heyday of the British Empire. Not content with rising from a military officer to become the Governor of New South Wales, Brisbane’s influence ventured north to give his name to Queensland’s capital.
Largs Museum is the perfect starting point for exploring Largs’ rich history, but it sets off a whack-a-mole in your head with myriad more centuries to delve down. We meet Brisbane again at the Old Bath House on the waterfront, which has become the Brisbane Centre.
The construction of this grand civic project began in 1816 with funding by public subscription. It was designed as an ahead of its time community hub to benefit all, with public bathing facilities, a library, billiard room and a meeting space.
He discovered Largs on holiday with his first wife Margaret Crum in 1852 and repeated holiday visits became a permanent residency that led to him building the Netherhall House mansion in 1874 at time when many monied individuals were erecting grand stone mansions on the Firth of Clyde coast.
During his 53 year stint at Glasgow University Kelvin brought the world his eponymous international system for measuring absolute temperature.
Largs is a time machine that constantly catapults you back and forth. One minute you are hiking up Castle Hill in search of the Haylie Chambered Tomb, which dates back over five millennia; the next learning about how Normandy was chosen as the site of the landings in 1944, with Churchill and Eisenhower both in attendance at a Largs meeting that literally decided the future of the Europe we live in today. How many resort towns boast this depth of history?
And we’ve not even mentioned Jose Mourinho. Nor the other famous managers who once flocked here for SFA coaching courses at the National Sports Training Centre Inverclyde, or just came here to refine their skills.
The list of luminaries verges on the ridiculous, from Alex Ferguson, Alec McLeish and Brendan Rodgers, through to global icons like Fabio Capello, Giovanni Trapattoni, Marcelo Lippi and Carlos Queiroz.
Largs has never been content to dance around the fringes of history. Take 1263. The future of Scotland itself was in the balance in Largs as the country finally rid itself of the Norse dominance of our isles in the pivotal Battle of Largs.
The Vikingar! museum tells the tale with recreation of Viking living and a film on the battle. You can even dress up as a Viking here – look out for the ‘Berserker’ helmet used in a ‘murder’ in Taggart. After the exhausting three day battle Norway had lost a king and Scotland sent the Norsemen hame to think again, their longships never again to have Scotland’s coastal communities living in terror.
Look out too for the [[Largs]] Live music extravaganza, the delicious [[Largs]] Food and Drink Festival and a massive sailing event, the [[Largs]] Regatta Festival. There is regular theatre, comedy and music too at the historic Barrfields Theatre, which first opened its doors in 1930. And local talk of building a replica Viking longship.
There is always a joyous festival vibe at Nardini’s. Dating back to 1935, this art deco wonder of an ice cream parlour and café evokes the doon the watter heyday when fish suppers cost sixpence.
The stoic Nardini family survived World War Two as when Italy entered the war all able-bodied Italians living in Scotland were sent into interment on the Isle of Wight, with the matriarch of the family left to run Nardini’s. Live music still fills this most atmospheric of venues as the decades peel back on a wave of diner-led nostalgia.
Indulging in fish ‘n’ chips and ice cream at Nardini’s, of course, is the quintessential Largs nostalgia experience. But there are so many layers to this deeply historic Ayrshire town, so next time you take the train down make sure when you arrive to continue your journey, a journey through the ages.
Foodie Largs
Room
Bright, welcoming restaurant on the waterfront. Watch the Waverley thrash by as you tuck into spicy Mexican dishes with a Scottish twist, like haddock tacos. Save room for the epic three scoops of tablet ice cream, accompanied by two shortbread biscuits, smothered in tablet sauce. Enough to make a sweet-toothed horse grimace. Delicious.
www.roomatlargs.com
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(Image: Robin McKelvie) Fishworks
They do classic fish suppers at this smart waterfront chippie and can even name the trawler your haddock came from. But they also offer more unusual takeaways, like battered langoustine pieces and whole langoustines too. Whatever you catch it’s best enjoyed on the waterfront just outside watching the ferries come and go.
www.thefishworks.co.uk
Nardini’s
The famous ice cream parlour and café still exudes a grand air of art deco drama. They mix things up with cod, lemon sole and even sea bass alongside haddock ‘n’ chips. The shared platter is the way to go for a bit of everything. Then it’s the proper ice cream, made with full fat milk and double cream.
www.nardinis.co.uk
Bed down in Largs
Brisbane House Hotel
Make sure to book a room with a Firth of Clyde view at this swish waterfront retreat. Its smooth modern vibe attracts weddings, but there are also traditional touches like Tunnocks (tea cakes and caramel wafers) to go with your tea tray. Best enjoyed in a chair by the window peering out over Cumbrae and Bute looking out for seabirds and passing cetaceans.
www.manorviewhotels.co.uk
The Willowbank
There are few airs and graces about this hotel a wee stroll along the waterfront from the main Largs action. Think homely and old world three star hotel, rather than stylish boutique. The promenade lies just a few minutes away from this 30-bedroom hotel.
www.thewillowbankhotel.co.uk
Peacock Guest House
This welcoming wee guest house only has a quartet of rooms and feels very cosy. Just a short walk from the train station, the bedrooms come with orthopaedic beds and free wifi. Kick off the following day with a hearty breakfast served in their dining room.
www.peacockguesthouse.co.uk
