For living and learning

As a child from Dundee, St Andrews was everything a day trip needed to be. Not too far away (as in ''are we there yet?''), across a bridge (you really feel like you're going somewhere when you cross water) and narrow, cobbled

streets which echo to the sound of seagulls. And ice-cream. And chips.

Even during the summer months it retains the relaxed buzz of a university town. As a centre of learning, students should have no excuses for not doing well. (Female students ogling a future king can perhaps be excused, however.)

Beautiful surroundings, the chance to clear the head with a walk near the water and just enough night-time distraction all must be conducive to learning.

The ancient seat of learning also has ancient seats of power. The complex and visitor centre at St Andrews Castle is complete enough to allow children's imagination to run wild.

With its labyrinth of rooms, stairways and underground tunnels, children can explore, then run free in the grassy areas.

It was with a little trepidation that a 10-year-old niece and seven-year-old nephew were taken on a tour - in the age of WWF and Pokemon I wondered what they would make of ''a pile of old stones''.

As the seven-year-old gingerly made his way down a narrow staircase, he piped up: ''How did they get down these wee stairs with their big shoes?'' Huge sigh of relief...

They even refused to be spooked by the bottleneck dungeon where prisoners were thrown and left to perish. No clues as to the sheepish grown-up refusing to admit first seeing it at 23 and having nightmares.

It was then the realisation struck that the stones and doorways - and particularly the underground tunnels - were actually a bit of an adventure playground from the dark ages.

Similarly in the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral there were questions to ask. Luckily well-sited information plaques filled in the blanks as far as walls, ceilings and doorways were concerned. Only the tower, which can be climbed, remains, but, again, imagination had a big part to play.

Even the graveyard in the complex was of some fascination, though not morbidly so. The age of the stones and the fate of the people were of great interest...but only until the realisation that it was lunchtime struck.

This close to the water, fish and chips is always a safe bet but there are many good cafes and restaurants if the need to rest weary legs is too great.

Walk the length of Market Street, or indeed the maze of streets which run off and parallel to it, and a family day out could take on a pleasant twist - there could be a little shopping involved.

Apart from the usual choice of high street shopping St Andrews has imaginative independent shops with everything from toys to exotic home accessories to fine foods.

An alternative way to walk off lunch is down by the harbour or the beach.

Walk along The Scores and the wide range of holiday accommodation available becomes clear - everything from friendly B&Bs to high quality hotels.

This is, of course, perfect for the pilgrims. The pilgrims who flock to the birthplace of their own object of worship. Those for whom whacking a small white ball with a metal stick round this hallowed place is akin to football fans scoring the winner for Scotland at the Maracanara in Brazil. It's that good and, unless you're blessed by the ballot, slightly less likely.

While the golfer is selling his soul for a round or drooling over the British Golf Museum or parting with indecent amounts of cash at the golf shops dotted round the town, the rest of the family can take advantage of The Scores other great attraction, the Sea Life Centre.

Apart form the obvious attraction of frolicking seals in the outside pool, this Sea Life Centre takes visitors down into the rock where all manner of sea creatures live.

Stroke a stingray and handle starfish, then move on to the kaleidoscope of fish and the murkier waters where conger eels and octopus lie.

Beyond these dark passages is a lighter area where little boys love to congregate - at a distance. The sharks in the Sea Life Centre look like Jaws in everything but bulk. But more importantly the specialist staff who give a talk when taking the toothy stars through feeding time let us know that this species is more diverse than shocking documentaries and that famous 1970s film would have us believe.

A cafe and an extensive shop rounds off the marine experience.

If you're planning a trip during the summer it's worth considering taking a few days to travel the whole East Neuk working doen to Crail and Anstruther, visiting Pitenweem and St Monans and stopping off at Culross if you happen to be heading towards the Kincardine Bridge.

It's a breath of fresh air, windy, but fresh.