RAYMOND GARDNER finds entrepreneur Ron McCulloch about to open another
creation in Glasgow's West End.
THERE is no truth in the rumour, current in the restaurant business
and among the trend conscious punters of Glasgow's West End that
entrepreneurial restauranteur, disco crinkly, and interior design guru
Ron McCulloch is about to open the most expensive restaurant in town.
Fresh back from Dublin where he put together a nightclub called The
Pod, he is simply about to open a new restaurant which, depending on the
kind of friends you take to dinner and what they order, could cost you
just a shade less than #30 per skull for three courses (excluding wine)
according to a sample menu Mr Ron produced at his Cul-de-Sac nosherie in
Ashton Lane where he contented himself with a humble crepe.
Apart from his internationally known design company McCulloch is a
well known innovator on the Glasgow scene. As a disco owner he led the
campaign against the city's dance mania curfew, lost, and now amuses
himself with the knowledge that the publicity was enough to remind his
customers to get out of the pub in time to get into the discos. He does
not own any pubs -- wise man.
But even his bank manager was a mite surprised to learn that he
intended to go into the a la carte restaurant scene. To which he simply
says: ''Why not. If there is sight of the end of the recession, its time
to get people back out again.'' And, he no doubt hopes, into his latest
creation.
The Puppet Theatre, as the new enterprise is called, opens tonight
after many months on the design and planning board. If you want to join
the trendsetters of the post-yuppie era dial 041 339 8444 to book and,
get yourself round to 11 Ruthven Lane in Hillhead.
The location is the building formerly occupied by P.J.'s -- which was
reduced to a shell before work began to transform it into what the
sketches suggest will be an exciting interior.
The most noticeable external element is a conservatory -- designed by
Jim McMahon of McCulloch's own design outfit in what is described as
''Gaudiesque style'' -- which has been built over the patio area.
The interior of the 75-seater eaterie is quite small, split up into
separate dining areas by immoveable walls and pillars, now with its
horizons expanded by the judicious use of mirrors.
Apart from the glassed-in area, a large part of the cellarage is
behind a wrought-iron screen at ground level. One room features an altar
style wall complete with candles and draped muslin. A splendid gothic
style table has been purchased to create another space for 18 diners,
and there is a grandly draped and upholstered caboose for canoodling a
deux.If there is one design problem it will be parking the Lamborghini.
The Puppet Theatre kitchen brigade is headed by chef Douglas Painter
who trained at the Glasgow College of Food Technology. He spent four
years at the old Fountain and five at The Buttery where he became head
chef.
Interesting sounding interpretations from venison sausage with an
apple and redcurrant chutney to marinated seared beef and calves' liver
are to be found on the sample menu which makes much use of Scottish
produce where possible.
The restaurant's name comes from an organisation which once occupied
the premises which now house the McCulloch empire's HQ in Otago Street.
At one time he'd toyed with the idea of a restaurant of that name on
the site which would have been cantilevered out over the River Kelvin.
The planning department thought not.
''Eating out,'' says McCulloch, ''is my way of socialising and Glasgow
seems limited. I know what I like and I'd like the Puppet Theatre with
its idea of quality without formality''.
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