Hot, but seldom bothered in the kitchen

a tandoori trip that

fulfils its eastern promise

IN THE dark tunnel underneath Glasgow's Central Station that is known

as the Heilan' Man's Umbrella, a steep flight of stairs leads down to a

basement kitchen which at one time might have been an old tavern

''dive''. Today, it is a tandoori kitchen.

There is a gas cooker, a battery of pots and pans above it, and a row

of modern fridges. But the action centres round a bulb-shaped clay oven,

heated by a fire at the bottom, with layers of insulating bricks built

up round it so that its outer shape is square. On top there is a metal

lid that tandoori cook Joga Singh removes and a hot blast of exotic

aroma shoots out.

Chicken is tandoori-ing on long skewers, one end in the fire, the

other on the neck of the oven. From a work surface Joga Singh takes a

smooth tennis ball of dough off a tray, wets it, and works it into a

long oval, narrower at one end. He then slaps it to the side of the hot

oven, where it sticks. Why his hand is not burned is a mystery.

This method of making delicious naan bread takes only a few minutes.

Before it has had time to cool, Hira Rahman, owner of the restaurant*

and for the moment also waiter, whisks it away to serve customers

upstairs.

Tandoori kitchens also have an impressively sophisticated style of

using herbs and spices. As Joga Singh rushes round, preparing other

dishes, it is impossible to keep tabs on what he is doing: so many

different ingredients, so many different procedures.

And then there are the accompaniments: rice, papadum, salads, pickles,

raitas (yogurt based dishes), and, more familiarly, chutneys or

''chatnis'' to Indians. No authentic Indian meal is complete without

several bowls of seasoned fresh fruits and vegetables, minced or finely

cut, to give that finishing zest at the table. Indians also add relish

to plain roasts, cold meats, and mature cheeses.

AMKI CHATNI (FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY WITH COCONUT)

Ingredients: 2 medium firm, slightly under-ripe mangos; 1 tablespoon

finely chopped fresh coconut; 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander; 2

teaspoons grated fresh ginger; 1 teaspoon salt, pinch of cayenne pepper.

Method: Slice either side off the mango. Peel the skin off the centre

stone piece, remove the flesh, and chop. Score the flesh of the halves

into half-inch cubes and cut out of the skin. Put into serving bowl, add

the coconut, coriander, ginger, salt, and cayenne. Mix thoroughly, put

in a cool place, and leave for a few hours before use. May be stored

overnight in the refrigerator.

ADRAK CHATNI (FRESH GINGER CHUTNEY)

Ingredients: juice of 1 lemon; 2 oz (50 g) scraped ginger root,

roughly chopped; 1 tablespoon sultanas; 3-4 large cloves garlic; 1 level

teaspoon salt.

Method: Put the lemon, ginger, sultanas, garlic, and salt into a

blender and blend at high speed for 30 seconds. Scrape down sides and

blend for another 30 seconds. Serve at once or cover and store. It will

keep for at least a week in the refrigerator.

IMLI CHATNI (TAMARIND CHUTNEY)

Ingredients: 2 oz (50 g) dried tamarind; 1 cup (8 fl oz / 250 ml)

boiling water; 1 dessertspoon fresh ginger root, scraped and grated; 1

dessertspoon fresh lemon juice; 1 teaspoon crumbled jaggery (available

in Asian food stores, otherwise use demerara or dark brown muscovado

sugar); 1 teaspoon salt; 1-2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander.

Method: Place the tamarind in a small bowl and pour the boiling water

over it. Leave to soak for about an hour, stirring and mashing

occasionally. Rub through a fine sieve, press down hard to extract all

the pulp. Add the ginger, lemon juice, salt, and jaggery. Stir together

well. Sprinkle with chopped coriander just prior to serving. Cover and

store in the fridge, it will keep for at least a week.

BRITISH APPLE, APRICOT, or PUMPKIN CHUTNEY (cooked)

Ingredients: 2lb (1 kg) apples or pumkin, peeled, cored, and chopped,

or 1lb (500 g) dried apricots; 1lb (500 g) onions; 8oz (250g) seedless

raisins; 1 pint (500 ml) white wine vinegar; 1lb (500 g) dark brown

sugar; 2 tablespoons salt; 8oz (250g) preserved ginger; half tablespoon

mustard seeds; 1 level teaspoon cayenne (optional); 1 teasp ground

turmeric; 1 orange, grated zest and juice; 4oz

(125g) shelled walnuts.

Method: Put all the ingredients into a pan, except the walnuts, and

cook gently to a soft mush (about 1-2 hours). Add the walnuts. Pack into

sterilised jars and seal. Keep for at least a month before using.

* Lahore Creme de la Creme, 253 Argyle Street, Glasgow (041 221 5325).