It’s as if there’s a shop on every street corner, queues snaking out the door at all hours of the day – people drawn in like moths to a flame by the smell of freshly baked goods 

Business is booming, despite health fads and health scares, as its bosses finish reporting annual sales of more than £1 billion.

But just how did pastry purveyor Greggs shake off the slow-down that is affecting much of the UK’s retail sector.

And why does Scotland have such an appetite for its steak bakes and sausage rolls?

The distinctive signage of the takeaway chain can be spotted in almost every city centre across the country, the blue and yellow branding a siren call to the hungover and the hungry. 

Founded in 1939 as an egg and yeast bicycle delivery service by John Gregg on the Tyneside, the first shop opened in Gosforth in 1951. 

The business was taken over by John’s sons after his death in 1964 who came up with installing a small oven in the back of every shop and doing most of the batch baking off-site. 

This meant the brothers could simulate the smells and sounds of a full-blown production, while keeping costs down and quickly expanding.

Fast forward 80 years and Greggs is out-running the Joneses with more than 22,000 staff and its Fairtrade coffee blends, free wifi and range of pastries, cakes and sandwiches.

The surge in sales is, in part, down to the launch of their vegan sausage roll in January this year. 

The Quorn-filled alternative to its meatier sibling was rolled out after a 20,000-strong petition was lodged by animal-welfare charity Peta, and in response to the changing tastes of Greggs’ loyal customers.

After the hotly anticipated £1 product hit the shelves, the company revealed their profits surged significantly after hundreds of thousands were sold in the first week.

Post-launch, Greggs reported  a 9.6 per cent rise in like-for-like sales for the seven weeks to February 16, while total sales jumped 14.1%.

While many food retailers are experiencing a downturn as shoppers turn away from the high street, Greggs is bucking the trend with sales rising 7.2 per cent year-on-year in 2018 to £1.03 billion, compared with £960 million the previous year.

After opening the first store in Scotland in the 1970s, there are now 239 Greggs nationwide and a cheese and onion pasty is a hangover cure as ubiquitous as a can of Irn Bru and a full Scottish breakfast.

For Mairi Ritchie, 38, a teacher from Glasgow, Greggs has been a staple treat in her diet since she was a child. 

She said: “When I went to university in Edinburgh, I couldn’t believe that some people from up north didn’t know what a Greggs was as I grew up with it. It was a special treat when I was wee.”

These days the mother-of-two takes her sons around once a fortnight for a “carb-fest”. Her youngest son, four, is partial to the company’s bestselling product, the sausage roll, while her eldest, seven, of a cheese roll.

But Ms Ritchie does not deviate from her favourites: a chicken bake, a chicken bloomer and a pineapple cake, which is only available north of the Border.

She said: “It’s just comfort food, isn’t it. If you’re hungover or tired or don’t have time to sit down to eat, Greggs is the best.”

Catering for regional tastes is an important aspect of Greggs’ business strategy, ensuring that their customers are satisfied with the selection on offer on their home turf.

Scottish customers have exclusive access to the pineapple cake, a domed yellow confection encased in pastry and filled to the brim with pineapple jam and cream.

On certain national holidays, a haggis pie can even be tracked down at certain branches.

The people of Scotland share the scotch pie with Northern Ireland and Empire biscuits with the north east of England.

In recent years, the company has introduced healthier options such as salads, soups and pre-packaged seeds, and a wider range, including the vegan sausage roll, in a bid to position themselves as an “food-on-the-go” brand rather than a “take-home” bakery.

In 2016, their lower calorie range accounted for more than 10 per cent of total sales, but for fans, it’s their range of stodgy pastries and sweet treats that keep them coming back for more.

Greg Kelly, 42, from Edinburgh, pops into Greggs every morning for a cup of tea and a breakfast roll on his way to work as a contractor.

He said: “I’ve been going to Greggs for years. I’m there probably too much. I love their breakfast rolls.

“My wife keeps trying to get me to buy fruit there but that’s not for me. I think it’s great they have the option but you can’t beat a bacon roll to set you up for the day.”

But even with their massive success to date, there is uncertainty in the ranks ahead of Brexit, despite reports that the chain has been “stockpiling” the ingredients of their vegan offering ahead of March 29.

Chief executive Roger Whiteside said there were “significant uncertainties” ahead as the UK negotiates its withdrawal from the EU, which could affect supply chains and consumer demand.

Mr Whiteside said: “Whilst there are significant uncertainties in the months ahead, Greggs has started 2019 in great form. We hope to continue benefiting from this strong momentum.

“We have a strong financial position which we plan to use to invest in Greggs’ potential for further growth.”