Location: Skye
Grade: Moderate forest walk
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Time: 2-3 hours
The long abandoned township of Leitir Fura lay hidden under dense undergrowth and bracken for a century or more until the dense surrounding forest began to be cleared as part of the Millennium Forest for Scotland project.
At the same time, archaeologists looked at the site in more detail and prepared a report which gives interesting historical background.
Leitir Fura lies on the route of an old drove road. This section ran from Kylerhea to Kinloch and was used by drovers facing the daunting task of swimming their beasts across the Sound of Sleat to the mainland. They no doubt welcomed the chance for a rest and some refreshment at Leitir Fura.
Part of the old drove road has now been restored as a footpath, providing not only a splendid walk but views across the Sound of quite stunning magnificence.
Directly across from you is the imposing bulk of Beinn Sgritheall.
To its right you see the opening of Loch Hourn, which narrows into a fjord higher up, and rising steeply above the loch, the crags and ridges of Ladhar Bheinn, one of many superb mountains on the Knoydart peninsula.
Pick a good day for your walk if you can so that you can enjoy the views to the full. Just imagine waking up to that view every morning: it would have been a hard life at Leitir Fura but the view must surely have been some compensation.
From the small car park, the walk follows a broad forest track for just over a kilometre before turning off onto the signposted path. The path rises through the trees to emerge into the open – and that view.
Eventually, at a signpost pointing out the drove road to Kylerhea (some of which is now quite difficult to follow) the path runs downhill in a series of zig-zags, passing between the ruins of the houses which made up Leitir Fura. Historical information is fairly scant but it would seem that the land belonged to the MacInnes clan.
The settlement seems to have been abandoned in the early 19th century, not because of enforced clearance but simply through it becoming too difficult to sustain a living. The shore here is very rocky and there is no decent landing place for boats. Wandering among the ruins today you may find it difficult to envisage anyone scratching a living here, but people did, as they did at many similar sites all over the Highlands. The name is believed to come from a great oak tree called An Fura Mhor under which it is said 40 cattle could shelter. ‘Leitir’ just means a slope. There were at least 14 houses here, indicating a total of perhaps 40-50 souls.
An old story relates that the children of a man named Iain mac Mhaol-Chaluim were playing here and lit a fire which unfortunately spread to the great oak and burned it down. The family were evicted for this transgression – harsh punishment.
Some abandoned settlements in the Highlands, particularly those subject to enforced clearance, have a melancholy air. I didn’t find this at Leitir Fura: the atmosphere was peaceful and it is a very beautiful place that I would be happy to return to – not least, of course, for that quite outstanding view.
Roger Smith
ROUTE PLANNER
Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheets 32 (South Skye) and 33 (Loch Alsh and Loch Hourn).
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Time: 2-3 hours
Start/finish: Small forestry car park at GR: NG704161. Leave A851 6km south of Broadford at Leitir Fura walk sign and follow rough track for 1km to car park.
Public transport: Stagecoach bus service 52 from Broadford to Armadale passes the turnoff for the walk. Details from www.stagecoachbus.com
Information: Portree TIC, 01478 614906.
Route: From the car park, follow small path up to broad forestry track and TR. In 1km TL on signposted path. Follow path through woods and on to Leitir Fura. Path zigzags downhill. At foot, TR on forestry track and follow it back to the start.
We are running our favourite previously published walks due to a backlog caused by Covid
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