‘Tis the season to celebrate, officially. And where better to have a celebratory meal than at One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin, in Hyndland?

Since it opened in 1986, this iconic venue has been a magnet for Glaswegians looking to mark a special occasion. Yet despite this long heritage of hospitality (and even longer physical presence in the city, with the terrace of townhouses the hotel occupies being built in the 1870s) they do not shy away from innovation.

The fresh, seasonal menu in the hotel restaurant is frequently updated and refreshed – with head chef Gary Townsend recently being nominated for National Chef of the Year.

It was with this in mind that I was invited down to sample their new Champagne Lunch. Despite the opulent settings of the One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin restaurant, the Champagne Lunch is charged at a very reasonable £35 per person for three courses.

The Herald:

Gary Townsend and his team have curated a menu that showcases the very best of Scotland’s larder, with highlights including an Ayrshire pork belly to start and a sea bream fillet (served with brown shrimps) as one of the three main courses.

I opted for the potato and leek velouté – delightfully light while still full of flavour – for my starter, while my dining partner chose the goats cheese with beetroot, apple and walnuts.

It all tasted delightful, helped in part by the fact it was being washed down with a crisp glass of champagne.

For my main, I chose the risotto with wild mushrooms and black truffle. Ordering vegetarian courses on a set menu can often be a disappointment, with non-meat options often feeling like an afterthought or a tick box exercise. This couldn’t have been more different: the risotto packed a punch, with a texture quite unlike the smooth (and frankly stodgy) risottos I have had in the past.

Full marks were also issued for the cheese selection we ordered for dessert. Cheese is a bit of a speciality for the restaurant at One Devonshire Gardens, and the quality and variety on offer finished off our meal in style.

The Herald:

My One Devonshire Gardens experience didn't finish there, though. I was fortunate enough to be staying overnight in one of their deluxe rooms, complete with separate dining area, a wildly extravagant chandelier and, best of all, uber luxurious bathroom.

Each room in the hotel has an individual name and that translates into the design. Rather than a bland corporate hotel, the décor in the rooms is bold and brave with bright patterns and artistic wallpaper. My personal highlight was the huge bath, where I enjoyed a long soak with the L'occitane products provided before collapsing into the enormous bed.

The Herald:

Breakfast was served in the restaurant, and it was a delight to enjoy its opulence once more before leaving. The menu was extensive but I opted for the oak smoked salmon with scrambled eggs – probably the best hotel breakfast I've ever had – with the bonus of filling me up until dinnertime.

Parting was indeed sweet sorrow, as my sadness to check out only convinced me that scheduling a return trip was a matter of urgency. That's my new year’s resolution sorted…

The Champagne Lunch at One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin is available Friday and Saturday from 12pm - 2pm, or Sunday 12.30 pm - 3pm for £35 per person. Find out more, and book online, at www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow