Travel: Algarve tourist hotspot where the ocean pervades all of life

Both are in the southern Algarve region: Pine Cliffs hugs the south coast of Portugal while Ombria is situated near the village of Querenca, about 30km inland. Being handed this brief, I got a sense of how Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama must have felt way back in 1497 when King Manuel I plucked him from mercantile obscurity to lead a first fleet to India to establish a trading route to the East.

Like the intrepid seafarer, I was plucked from the relative obscurity of the sports desk to consider “coast versus country living” in the Algarve – a region I knew next to nothing about, other than its popularity with British holidaymakers. Rather than taking my patronage from King Manny, however, I was given my winding travel itinerary from Glasgow to Faro via Luton by the amiable staff who joined us on the trip, first to the Pine Cliffs Resort, a sprawling estate hosting a luxury five-star hotel, villas, townhouses, timeshares and suites, and later as we headed inland to Ombria Resort situated in the remote hills a few miles north of the historic village of Loule.

Arriving at Faro Airport, the descent over the shores of the Atlantic onto the sun-soaked runway offered a first taste of how the vast ocean interacts seamlessly with almost every aspect of life here. Our first meal that evening at Pine Cliffs’ O Pescador Restaurant (one of the resort’s 12 bars and restaurants) only reinforced this. Beginning outdoors, the aroma of burning coals mixed with fresh seafood cooking drifted towards us on the ocean breeze as we arrived for al fresco appetisers and wine tasting.

Afterwards, even at 10pm on a winter’s night, it was pleasant enough to walk off the excesses around the grassy grounds, which are punctuated by a large outdoor pool and lounging areas, down to the decking on the edges of the resort, where access to the sandy beach can be reached by a private elevator or by stairs.

The tall timber elevator shaft that shuttles residents down to the shore and back would be a bookmark for the next morning, when after a bountiful breakfast at the resort’s Jardim Colonia restaurant, I took the boardwalk steps down to the beach, where the sun careers across endless azure, and where the sky meets the boundless blue ocean. Growing up on the west coast of Scotland, you’d think this type of view was somewhat routine, but apart from the obvious climatological differences, there’s something quite humbling about the uninterrupted ocean horizon versus the pockmarked view of islands and clouds on the Irish Sea. You can really sense its limitless majesty. We then headed to nearby Vilamoura Marina, half an hour’s drive from the resort, and ventured out onto the ocean for a two-hour boat tour to Benagil Cave.

The trip saw us pass Pine Cliffs and, from about a kilometre out, it was humbling to see the inverse of the coastal view. Suddenly the human imprint on the natural landscape was virtually indiscernible, and part of the genius of the resort’s interaction with its surroundings became clear. It was, quite literally, carved into the coastline. The boat trip itself was a little more City Bus Tours than voyage of discovery (and the sight of dolphins promised on the company brochure never materialised), but it did offer a view of some of the local landmarks – more bookmarks for future exploration, perhaps.

Back at the resort, there was a taste of another of the major attractions for tourists in the Algarve: a golf lesson and round of the pristine nine-hole course situated on the Pine Cliffs grounds. After giving the club-pro the toughest hour of her career, I teed off with a range of helpful pointers in my golf bag and lapped up the calm, sunlit links experience (a stark contrast to the west coast of Scotland).

The undoubted highlight was the signature “Devil’s Parlour” sixth hole: perched 200ft above the sandy Falésia Beach below, the tee-shot is a hopeful clout over a perilous ravine that apparently takes you to a reception room in the fiery pits. Looking down, you could believe it, too. The next morning, after coffee on the ocean-view balcony, we headed to Loule for a visit to the local market – a bustling, indoor bazaar offering a range of locally sourced seafood, ground spices and honey.

We then took a walk around the quaint old town with its castle, historic Islamic baths, artisan workshops and cafes, providing a distinctive Portuguese experience. We sampled a 12-course tasting menu at the up-market Cafezique in the centre of town. From locally sourced spiderfish, cuttlefish and octopus to fermented leek rice and even fermented olives, the carefully curated fine-dining menus and wine accompaniments were impressive – if a little out of kilter with the quaintness of the town.

A sign of the town’s ambitions to reach out to a flourishing tourist clientele, perhaps. This ethos underpins the upcoming Ombria Resort. With high claims to sustainability in its immense building project – a 378-acre resort mirroring Pine Cliffs on the hills of Querenca – Ombria seeks to combine luxury (its incredible 18-hole golf course, for example, will be a sumptuous addition to the region’s redoubtable roster) with environmentally conscious design. While only a 30-minute drive to the coast, the resort feels more Appalachian Mountains than Newfoundland.

After a tour of the luxury villas offered within the resort, which will also have a hotel at its centre, we took a trip into Querenca, a typical inland village in the hills. The local area offers a very different perspective to the coast, with nature reserves and walking tours catering to a more active lifestyle. Ombria’s close attention to sustainability gives the luxury development an organic, earthy feel, and this strikes the right tone amid the rawness of its surroundings. It definitely felt like a step out from the Algarve’s catering to tourists, and in terms of a place to stay on a more permanent basis, the resort is sure to offer real comfort within an authentic, Portuguese setting.

It will be interesting to see how this fares within this high-end market, especially in competition with coastal resorts such as Pine Cliffs so close by. On return to Pine Cliffs, we experienced a third night of bountiful servings of delectable dishes, where the slight nip in the air in the hills had evaporated. For a short holiday trip, Pine Cliffs offers everything any individual, group, family or couple could want. When it comes to “coast versus country living”, however, the “living” part of that head-to-head is important. Inland, in Loule and Querenca, there is a sense of a historic region that is both sure of itself and seeking to grow and develop.

Albufeira and the coastal Algarve provide all the servings of coastal fare one could ever desire – and the fact that it is so accessible to Ombria is an added bonus for the new development. For the intrepid explorer, or for someone seeking a new way of life, a step further inland could set up their own voyage of discovery and perhaps unearth a few surprises along the way. And failing that, it’s only a short hop to the beach.

Travel Facts

As well as hotel stays from £129 per night, Pine Cliffs Resort near Albufeira has two-and threebedroom apartments, townhouses and new luxury villas to purchase with prices starting from 1.1 m euros to 4.5m euros. www.pinecliffs.com Ombria Resort have launched pre-sales for Oriole Village – 83 fully furnished homes in one to four-bedroom apartments, from 575,000 Euros. www.ombria.com Additionally Viceroy Residences currently start from 711,500 Euros for a fully furnished 1-bed and offer a guaranteed minimum 5% rental return per year for the first 5 years.