Shallots are one of our most under-rated crops. They’re much more nutritious than onions, are easy to grow and harvest, and can tolerate less than perfect care and attention.

Studies show that shallots, Allium ascalonicum, contain many more vitamins, trace elements and antioxidants than onions so are much better for us. Shallots, like some other old species, have largely escaped the attention of plant breeders.

As frequently happens, more intensive plant breeding leads to larger, more uniform and sometimes sweeter crops. The move to F1 varieties is the latest development. F1s breed true for only one season so seed saving is impossible.

If, like me, you want an easier, less demanding crop, shallots are for you. Varieties are either round or are long and tapering to a point and there are pinker or redder shades as well as the more traditional yellow kind. The longer types, like ‘Longor’, ‘Zebrune’ or ‘Long Red Florence’ are easier to prepare in the kitchen so are always a favourite in our house.

When preparing a planting bed, we’re urged to use well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Good drainage is certainly critical. Provide enough water but don’t soak the soil or leave it soggy which might encourage various rots.

While the plants do best in fertile soil they tolerate poorer growing conditions. I spread a generous layer of home compost on the soil and rake it to a fine tilth. But don’t despair if compost is in short supply. Simply spread chicken pellets and rake finely, the shallots will grow quite well.

When planting shallots, we’re often urged to space bulbs 15-20cm apart, with 30-45cm between rows. I don’t think this takes enough account of the wide spread of shallots and the greater overall weight of each clump than onions. They have 10cm spacing and 15cm between rows. My planting distance is always 30cm, with 45cm between rows. I admit the poor wee plants don’t get as much attention as I’d like, but I still get a decent harvest.

Ensure the ground isn’t compacted and plant by pressing each bulb, about 2cm deep, into friable soil. This lets roots spread easily rather than forcing the bulb upwards. When bulbs are almost hidden, you reduce the odds of birds tweaking them out while searching for insects beneath the shallots.

The wider planting I recommend makes it much easier to care for the crop than more closely planted onions. Weeding is easier because there is enough space to get the hoe in without damaging swelling bulbs and it lets them ripen more easily in the sun.

I always prefer growing shallots from bulbs, or sets, rather than sowing seed. Each set gives you a decent crop of 6-8 shallots in July or August. A seed only produces one small bulb which you’d plant the following spring and get the harvest that following summer.

The first shallots should be ready by early July. Pick off one or two outer bulbs, even when leaves are still green. The remainder will continue growing a little.

Depending on the summer, foliage should start yellowing and withering in late July/early August, the bulbs stop growing and it’s harvest time.

Once again, shallots knock spots off onions. I well remember lifting onions, knocking earth off and laboriously peeling off any damaged outer leaves before carefully lining them individually along the top of a fence to finish drying and ripening. Then there’s the storing.

With shallots, simply lift clumps, tease bulbs apart, gently rub off any loose papery skin and earth from the roots. Store in nets or jute bags, never plastic. Shallots should keep well in a cool, dry place, supposedly till the following spring. Ours are finished by the end of January.

Plant of the week

Narcissus cyclamineus is an early flowering daffodil with an acid yellow trumpet and “petals” swept back, making it look as if it has grown in a high wind. Though only 15-20cm tall it naturalises well in short grass.